Comte de Vogue
About Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Possessing one of the richest and lengthiest histories of any Burgundian Domaine, Comte de Vogüé can in fact trace its origins as a winemaking entity back to 1450. Quite unusually for Burgundy, the estate remained under the ownership of the same family for generations, including through the female line of the family until Catherine Bouhier married Cerice-Melchior de Vogüé in 1766. Retaining ownership of the winery and its holdings throughout the French Revolution despite being exiled in England, the modern history and now-famous label began in earnest with the Comte Georges de Vogüé inheriting the property in 1925.
Currently under the imperious stewardship of estate manager Jean-Luc Pepin, vineyard manager Eric Bourgogne and truly masterful winemaker François Millet, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is at the height of its power, delivering some of the most wonderous, transcendent and utterly sublime expressions of Burgundy collectors could hope to experience.
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Vinous (94)
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a complex bouquet that is slightly more Musigny in personality than I expected. There is mainly dark fruit here, mixed with potpourri and incense and becoming more flamboyant as it aerates in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and quite compact in style because, as François Millet noted, these 2017s are beginning to close down. But there is certainly good density here, and an enticing tensile finish.د.إ6,430.00 -
Vinous (96-98)
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a limpid deep purple. It has a heavenly bouquet distantly related to the Les Amoureuses, offering precocious but detailed blueberry, black cherry, crushed iris petal and crushed limestone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with an edgy, marine-influenced opening, a tang of shucked oyster shells infusing the black and blueberry fruit, leading to a detailed, tensile, lightly spiced finish. A long tail of white pepper lingers on the aftertaste. This is absolutely divine.د.إ13,825.00 -
Burghound (93-95)
(from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the far southern portion of the vineyard). A riper and more restrained nose requires some swirling to reveal its aromas of plum liqueur, blue berry, earth and a more restricted range of spice elements. The bigger and richer flavors possess an opulent richness and a velvety texture that coats the palate and enrobes the firmer tannic spine shaping the powerful, tautly muscular and strikingly persistent finale. This offers a completely different expression compared to the Amoureuses but one that is equally interesting. This too possesses superb development potential though patience definitely advised. (93-95)/2039+د.إ13,995.00 -
Jancis Robinson (19)
I bowed to this bottle. Very deep ruby. Lovely savour. Bones and richness on the end with dry finish. Much, much more grown-up than the Iona. Precise and fresh. Really expressive and gorgeous. Long and stunning now. Bone-dry end.د.إ9,795.00 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016.د.إ9,095.00 -
Vinous (97-99)
The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.د.إ9,950.00 -
Vinous (97-99)
The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.د.إ24,620.00 -
Burghound (95-98)
(from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay). This too is quite aromatically restrained though aggressive swirling does eventually coax the pure and elegant aromas to emerge and when they do, they are almost a hypothetical blend of the Amoureuses and the Bonnes Mares. The concentrated, powerful and decidedly muscular flavors retain plenty of refinement and minerality that conclude in a wonderfully complex and superbly long finale. The mid-palate texture is akin to rolling rocks around in the mouth and the finish just goes on and on. This too is brilliant, and the word Zen definitely comes to mind. (95-98)/2041+د.إ10,725.00 -
Burghound (95-98)
(from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay). As is often the case, this is aromatically similar to the Chambolle 1er but it’s less expressive and perhaps more densely fruited. There is notably better mid-palate concentration to the substantially sized big-bodied flavors that also possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel while exuding an abundance of mineral character on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finale. This Zen-like effort is superb and a wine that should also age gracefully over the next two decades. (95-98)/2040+د.إ11,155.00
