Wine Advocate (98)

The 2021 El Tamboril Tinto felt closed and austere like no other wine from the portfolio. This single vineyard from the village of Navatalgordo, the most austere and cold of the villages where they work, is also the highest altitude where they work. After years of working the vineyard, they were able to buy it in 2021; and in 2022, they made even bigger changes in the viticulture (they put in individual sticks for each vine). At 1,200 meters above sea level, this is the coldest place in the coldest vintage, and the soils are as rocky and mineral as it gets. This is a serious and mineral red with a moderate 13.5% alcohol, great freshness and acidity and a palate with very fine, chalky, Barolo-like tannins that make you salivate. It should develop in bottle for a loooooong time. 1,3,42 bottles were filled in April 2023.

Wine Advocate (93)

The 2019 La Bruja de Rozas was one of the few 2019s already bottled when I tasted the whole range in November 2020. This is a village Garnacha from Las Rozas de Puerto Real, their first approach to the grape, trying to capture the essence of the fresh fruit and the fluidity of the wine. 2019 is a ripe vintage, and the wine is a little more powerful, juicy and balanced, with rich aromas and flavors. It comes from different plots of old vines ranging from 40 to 65 years of age and planted at some 900 meters in altitude on sandy granite soils in a zone that has plenty of rain, averaging 800 liters per year. Like all of their vineyards, these plots are worked organically and biodynamically. Each vineyard fermented separately in oak vats with indigenous yeasts with a soft maceration. The wine matured in oak vats of different sizes, ranging from 1,500 to 6,000 liters. The 2019 effect seems to be quite mild here; the wine follows the profile of the 2018, despite being a little riper, and it's still very balanced. There are notes of flowers, basil and a touch of bacon intermixed with the wild berries and herbs. There's a little more concentration, and the tannins are a little chalkier and more austere. But there is no excess ripeness or anything out of place, and it has acidity and length and finishes dry and mineral. 41,853 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2020.

Wine Advocate (94)

The first red to be bottled and sold is the 2020 La Bruja de Rozas, which feels a little more reductive this year. The grapes were picked before the torrential rains, so the wine shows a little riper than the wines that were picked after (the single vineyards). It's flinty and with a note of struck match, with good ripeness at 14.5% alcohol. This is always aromatic and floral, pale and surprisingly ethereal and expressive, a very pleasant and surprising wine that tends to please most people. This is the wine that I buy in volume, as it's a superb introduction to the Comando G portfolio and style at a very good price. Even though the nose is never short of spectacular, to me the signature here is the super fine grainy tannins from the decomposed granite soils. This goes back to the freshness of 2016 and 2018, perhaps a little rounder and less herbal, somewhere in between the two vintages. 43,175 bottles were filled in late August and early September 2021.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2021 La Bruja de Rozas is their edgiest and most austere mineral and soil-driven version of their entry-level red. It's herbal, with no concession for fruit, and it has electricity and grip. It's a good preview of what's to come from 2021. It has a lot of 2018 and 2016 characteristics, a cool summer, a year with rain and even some during harvest that complicated matters and made them lose some grapes, but there's more grip, more minerality, more depth, layers and subtleness. It needs time in the glass, and my guess is that at age eight it's going to reach an outstanding level. A grown-up Bruja, it’s more for soil fanatics than the general public, and it’s one to lay down in your cellar (by the case) while you drink your 2020s. There were 55,184 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2022 Navatalgordo, a village red from the village of the same name, is one of two completely new village wines from 2022, as the one from Rozas is an evolution of the Rozas 1er Cru. This was produced to reflect the character of the village, showcasing wines with tension and sharpness. It comes from soils with lots of quartz and was made with their own grapes and ones purchased from growers that have been working together with them at an average 1,100 meters in altitude. It fermented with full clusters in concrete and oak vats with 35- to 40-day maceration, and its élevage was in concrete and oak foudres. This village produces wines with lower alcohol, lower pH and higher acidity, even in warmer years like 2022. And the wine has more color, even if the alcohol is lower, from the cold. It's a wine that needs more time, more Barolo with a chalky character and slow development. It has a very floral and expressive nose, with electric acidity, and is tense, serious. This is the 2022 that feels less like 2022... Only with time in the glass did it develop some meaty aromas (Bovril?) and spiciness, which pointed at a warmer year and more Gevrey character. It has a contained 13% alcohol and a pH of around 3.0! Incredible parameters for a year like 2022. 11,047 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023. Only a little sulfur was added at bottling time, never before, as they feel the profile of the wine is more apt to work without added sulfur.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2022 Navatalgordo, a village red from the village of the same name, is one of two completely new village wines from 2022, as the one from Rozas is an evolution of the Rozas 1er Cru. This was produced to reflect the character of the village, showcasing wines with tension and sharpness. It comes from soils with lots of quartz and was made with their own grapes and ones purchased from growers that have been working together with them at an average 1,100 meters in altitude. It fermented with full clusters in concrete and oak vats with 35- to 40-day maceration, and its élevage was in concrete and oak foudres. This village produces wines with lower alcohol, lower pH and higher acidity, even in warmer years like 2022. And the wine has more color, even if the alcohol is lower, from the cold. It's a wine that needs more time, more Barolo with a chalky character and slow development. It has a very floral and expressive nose, with electric acidity, and is tense, serious. This is the 2022 that feels less like 2022... Only with time in the glass did it develop some meaty aromas (Bovril?) and spiciness, which pointed at a warmer year and more Gevrey character. It has a contained 13% alcohol and a pH of around 3.0! Incredible parameters for a year like 2022. 11,047 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023. Only a little sulfur was added at bottling time, never before, as they feel the profile of the wine is more apt to work without added sulfur.

Vinous (95)

The 2021 Rozas 1er Cru is 100% Garnacha from a Vino de Paraje in Valle Sur, Sierra de Gredos. Fermented with whole clusters, it presents sour cherry, herbal tones, orange peel and a touch of cherry over a delicate profile. A hint of chocolate-orange emerges with air. Grippy yet delicate, it has a lightly aqueous feel and a touch of fruit, gaining depth and definition on the finish. This modern red avoids the region’s sun-driven style in favor of varietal expression.

Wine Advocate (95)

The Rozas 1er Cru has a slight change in 2022 and turned into a village wine, the 2022 Rozas. They selected the best five vineyards that used to go to the Rozas 1er Cru, vineyards they have worked since 2012. In this warmer vintage, they did a softer vinification, with less maceration and more fermentation without skins, to avoid over-ripeness and notes of black fruit in the wine. It has more fruit and some silty tannins, which are more like Italian tannins in the more Mediterranean years like this 2022. This village is more subject to the changes in the years, with more herbal and ethereal notes in the wines in cooler years and juicier and with more marked tannins in the warmer ones. It has 14.5% alcohol and is more jovial, definitely not banal. 10,992 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023.

Wine Advocate (99)

The pale, delicate and ethereal 2021 Tumba del Rey Moro feels more austere than any other vintage of this single-vineyard wine. It comes from vines at 1,100 meters above sea level on granite soils in the village of Villanueva de Ávila and has a notable absence of fruit. Instead, it's mineral and floral, with subtle herbal notes ("piparra" peppers again!). It was harvested around the 12th of October, and by that time, the grapes had had a full development of aromas and flavors. The wine finished with 14% alcohol but with gobsmacking balance and freshness. The alcohol is not noticeable, a constant across the portfolio. The nose was shy at first and took time to develop, but when it did, it was layered and complex, with more Burgundian floral notes. The palate is super austere with lots of energy, reminiscent of liquid granite, with grip and light. It's a sharp vintage of Tumba del Rey Moro. 1,712 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2023.

Emanating from the romantic hills of Piedmont, Italy, Comero Sizzano 2017 presents an exquisite vintage that embodies the expertise of the Comero vineyards. The marriage of Nebbiolo and Vespolina grapes, masterfully matured in stainless steel and large oak barrels for a full-bodied flavour, imbues this vino with an unmissable aroma of red fruits, violets and luxurious spices reserved only for the highest quality wines.

Comero Sizzano 2017’s balanced tannins and luscious acidity truly set it apart; it rests gently on the palate, leaving a decadent aftertaste that lingers. The deep ruby red colouring perfectly complements the harmonious blend of fruit-rich and floral complexities, capturing the radiant Italian sun, fertile soils, and centuries-old passion of the Comero estate.

Brimming with a philosophy of hard work, respect for nature, and commitment to time-honoured traditions, Comero's Sizzano 2017 represents a sublime testament to expert Italian winemaking. Simply put, it is an essential addition to any connoisseur's collection.

Hailing from the renowned wine-growing region of Piedmont, Italy, Comero Sizzano 2018 is a true gem for the discerning palate. Renowned producer, Comero, meticulously produces this elite wine in the historical town of Sizzano. This masterly crafted blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina grapes are traditionally harvested by hand in late October, ensuring an unparalleled quality.

Distinguished by its rich ruby hue, Comero Sizzano 2018 mesmerizes with sensual notes of ripe berries, violets, and subtle hints of warm spice. The maturation process in French oak adds to its complexity and exquisite depths of flavour, resulting in a wine that boasts a captivating balance of elegance and earthiness.

Revered by wine connoisseurs, each bottle of Comero Sizzano 2018 communicates its prestigious pedigree and the uncompromising dedication to excellence by the producer. A bottle from this remarkable vintage leaves a lasting impression and is a testament to Italy's enduring wine heritage.

Jancis Robinson (17)

Cask sample. Pale blueish crimson. Lively and racy with real lift, though a tad rawer than the Clos des Epeneaux. A very serious Côte de Beaune by any measure.

Vinous (89-91)

The 2019 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru, a blend of two vineyards Les Beautrains and Les Bas des Duresses as usual, matured in around 25% new oak. It has a refined bouquet with a little more purity and sensuality compared to the Auxey Village. The palate is well balanced with gentle grip on the entry, quite rich but fresh in style with candied orange peel infusing the mixture of black and blueberry fruit. Crunchy, almost brittle texture towards the finish which is surprising given the type of growing season. Recommended.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-89)

12 barrels here, so not so bad. The usual almost purple-black colour of this cuvée offers plenty of energy. Dark berry fruit, with a rather stricter finish, and reasonably prominent acidity. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: November 2022

Vinous (87-89)

The 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté was picked on 11 October and will be bottled before Christmas. It has a taut, fresh nose with linden and frangipane scents. The palate is well-balanced and very effortless, with touches of stem ginger that liven the finish. This is a perfectly fine Aligoté.

Vinous - Neal Martin (88-90)

The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté was picked two weeks after the main harvest and racked just before the 2023 picking. It has quite a primal bouquet with grapefruit and Conference pear, gaining delineation in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely sense of "rondeur," slightly lower in acidity than last year but with commendable purity on the finish. Lovely.

Vinous (94)

The 2016 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a classic, undergrowth infused bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of stewed black tea emerging with time, tobacco and rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, succulent and juicy with a fleshy, almost Volnay-like finish that is very appealing. This is a well crafted and comparatively approachable Pommard. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

Vinous - Neal Martin (94)

The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a wonderful bouquet that fulfills its potential from barrel, offering immediately seductive brambly red fruit, crushed minerals and pressed rose petals. The 25–30% new oak is so neatly folded into the fruit that it is barely noticeable. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and quite citrus-driven, revealing orange peel and blood orange notes. Linear at first and then gently fans out and gains depth toward the persistent finish. Superb.

Jancis Robinson (18.5)

Cask sample. Quite a price! Transparent crimson. Very dense nose with more layers than most of the 2018 red burgundies I have tasted so far. Pretty rich with grand cru density. Very well done. Actually the best Clos des Epeneaux I remember tasting en primeur. Long, rich, opulent but all in a convincing structure. Very long in fact.

Decanter (96)

The final blend of this is superb, including both the energy of the young vines and the density of the old. They deliver a lush, spicy fruit with a strong mineral underpinning, a dense texture, firm but supple tannins and an infinitely rewarding finish. The Clos des Epeneaux is produced from a monopole of 5.23ha located at the juncture of Grands Epenots (20%) and Petits Epenots (80%). The clos is divided by regisseur Paul Zinetti into four main subdivisions by age of vine and underlying soils which are farmed and vinified separately.

Vinous - Neal Martin (93)

The 2021 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a classy bouquet with assiduous use of whole cluster that complements the red berry fruit. Wonderful delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation, fresh and vibrant, finely sculpted tannins with a sense of mineralité and tension on the finish that has far more sustain than its peers. This is a classy and quite delicious wine for the vintage. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)

(5 Star Wine) First we tasted the component parts. (1) Young vines from 1980s. A deep concentrated purple. Lesser foliage in the hot dry summer has concentrated the colour and other aspects, giving a dark style of fruit as well, with a nutty finish, but good acidity. (2) A blend, mainly from plot #3 and a bit of #1. Mid purple in colour, less demonstrative on the nose. A much suppler style of fruit, less forceful acidity, fine length, more typical Epenots here. (3) Old vines, 90+ years old: A deep glowing purple. A little more intensity, a gorgeous quality of deep red fruit, just a touch tougher in its tannins, plus the acidity. (4) Press wine: dark purple, powerful rather than fine on the nose, more volatile, but could be useful in the blend. Sweet thick dark red to black fruit. Chunky stuff. And now the blend: A deep purple colour with only a very slightly lighter rim. The bouquet suggests poise as the fruit has melded together harmoniously. On the palate this is, as almost always, a much more complete wine than the individual parts. The wine seems to push down deeper while retaining all the class of the very best components. We are approaching the cusp of red and black fruit, the acidity is perfectly harnessed and the tannins are fine grained. Potentially a very fine Clos des Epeneaux. Drink from 2032-2040+. Tasted: October 2023.

Jancis Robinson (17)

Cask sample. Polished and velvety without the energy of the Auxey Premier Cru. Sort of splits the difference between its two stablemates but I’m not sure wholly satisfactorily for the price.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2021 Volnay Les Frémiets 1er Cru has exquisite definition on the nose: a mélange of red and black fruit, allspice and light iris flower scents. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, more red fruit developing laced with clove and a touch of cooked meats, quite complex towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Classy and certainly with the substance to age.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-93)

Six barrels, two of them new. A medium to bright purple. The nose is invigorating with as little as 10% whole bunches, enough to add a floral note. This is lively on the palate, a Fremiets which has remembered it is in Volnay, not Pommard, delightfully stylish at the finish. Drink from 2032-2037. Tasted: October 2023.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)

Mid crimson to purple, with some reduction on the nose. A concentrated dark raspberry fruit, still with this reductive element. If and when that clears there is a fine long finish to look forward to instead. Impressive fruit in the end, so scored on the asu,mption that the reduction will clear. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: October 2023.