Wine Advocate (92)

Lemon, pineapple, and blackcurrant site-typically scent the Prum 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese and are then projected onto a palate underlain with wet stone. A faintly smoky, prickly aura of reduction doesn’t preclude one relishing this wine’s effusive, delectable juiciness. Indeed, like the bit of CO2 Spritz that typically characterizes Prum Rieslings, it somehow enhances the wines appealingly invigorating nervous energy. Salt and stone seem to be thoroughly deposited in a tongue-quivering finish. Expect this to – again in estate-typical fashion – reward 20-30 years’ bottle maturation.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese is intense and complex on the still introverted but complex nose that shows clear, bright fruit aromas (baby pineapple) intermingled with fine, flinty slate notes. What an aristocratic appearance! Round, crystalline and saline on the palate, this 2020 Auslese is much more openhearted and fruity as well as frisky and frivolous than it pretends to be on the nose. This is a really Catholic Riesling or a picture-book Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese. Its finish, however, is Protestant: rigorously linear, straight and with serious structure and grip. All in all, this is the world's most ecumenical Sonnenuhr. Pure fascination. 7% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 38 21 in July 2022.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2021 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese is concentrated and fresh on the aromatic nose that is immediately present but also still reductive. Ripe stone fruit aromas intermingle with notes of crushed stones on a deep foundation of aromas from the soil and the fruit of old vines. On the palate, the 2021 is very fine but also intense, savory, saline and lush, leading to a long, intense and highly digestible finish with crunchy and cleansing slate features. Again, this is a fabulous Auslese from Prüm's iconic Sonnenuhr. 7% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett offers a discreet and sublime, complex and very elegant and slightly flinty nose with a coolish and very delicate expression of stewed apricots but also some greenish berries, whereas the first stony character remains. This irresistible and noble bouquet leads to a round and lush yet also refined and savory palate, with coolish apricot flavors on the long and sustainably salty finish that is firmly structured but elegant and highly stimulating. This is a superb, very elegant and complex, sustainably structured Sonnenuhr. This is already a great pleasure to drink, but you can keep this Kabinett for more than three decades easily. 8% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 05 22 in July 2022.

James Suckling (96)

This Spatlese beams you up to Cloud 9, from where you have a wonderful view over the beautiful Mosel Valley. In spite of the considerable concentration, this is super-delicate and precise on the barely medium-bodied palate. Enormously long finish, where you barely feel the natural grape sweetness. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (94)

The jasmine, honeysuckle and white-thorn aromas are augmented by a touch of wild-herb character that adds special tension. Succulent, medium-bodied palate with caramelized white-peach character, then a very clean and stony finish that is impressively long. Drink or hold.

Jeb Dunnuck (94)

Moving to the three Cornas releases, the 2018 Cornas is brilliant and certainly in the same ballpark as the 2016 and 2017. Lots of red and blue fruits, smoked earth, graphite, iron, violets, and gamey notes define this full-bodied Cornas. With ample tannins, fabulous balance, and a big finish, it's going to need 4-5 years of bottle age at a minimum yet should drink fabulously well over the following 15 years.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

There are two special cuvées from this estate. Looking first at the 2018 Cornas Cuvée Jana, it tastes like the essence of Cornas with its meaty, bloody aromas and flavors of scorched earth, ground pepper, rare steak, iron, cedar, and dark, almost blue fruits. Tight, tannic, and concentrated on the palate, this full-bodied effort packs incredible intensity and power yet stays lively, elegant, and weightless. It's a brilliant, brilliant Cornas, yet certainly not for those seeking instant gratification. It actually reminds me slightly of the incredibly age-worthy wines from Domaine Clape, and I suspect it will have a similar evolution. Hide bottles for 7-8 years and enjoy over the following two decades.

Jeb Dunnuck (98)

Only made in top vintages, the 2018 Cornas Mère Michel is a tribute to Johann's wife and a play on the French song "La Mere Michelle." Brought up in a new demi-muid, it's a richer, broader wine compared to the Cuvée Jana yet still has incredible Cornas style in its red, black, and blue fruits as well as notes of toasted spice, roasted meat, chocolate, and wild herbs. Rich, full-bodied, and opulent, it has a touch more upfront appeal and should be drinkable in just 4-5 years yet also evolve for two decades.

Halliday Wine Companion (98)

Eligo is made from the best parcels of the vintage, fermented with submerged caps in small open fermenters, matured for 20 months in French hogsheads (50% new). The tannins and oak are built into the wine like an inlaid checkerboard table created by a master craftsman with decades of experience. Like John Duval.

Halliday Wine Companion (99)

From old vines in five districts, fermented with submerged cap, matured in French hogsheads (32% new) for 15 months. Complex and rich from the first whiff through to the aftertaste, not wasting a single berry in this great vintage. So much power, such elegance.

Halliday Wine Companion (98)

A full-bodied wine of ultimate coherence and quality, the bouquet setting the signal for the palate to follow. Attention to detail is obvious, especially the handling of tannins and oak. The integration of these components with the blackcurrant fruit is faultless.

The Vintage Journal (98)

Deep crimson. Complex blackcurrant, blackberry, praline, roasted chestnut mocha, marzipan notes. Richly flavoured, round and smooth with beautiful pure blackcurrant, blackberry mocha espresso flavours, fine loose-knit grainy tannins and underlying roasted chestnut, toffee notes. Finishes chocolaty and long with a long life ahead.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (92-95)

5 Star Wine. An even light lemon colour. The limestone shows up well on the nose without excess sun, no roasted stones aspect. Beautifully juicy on the palate, with a lift in every sip, optimum ripeness, the first wine picked and got just exactly right. Bravo. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Nov 2024.

The Joseph Colin St Aubin Compendium 2018 is an exceptional white Burgundy from a highly celebrated producer. Sourced from plots within the St Aubin appellation of France's wine-rich region Burgundy, this Chardonnay-based beauty encapsulates a marriage of limestone earthiness and keen minerality. The terroir, coupled with meticulous vinification efforts, indeed make this offering a compelling compendium of the 2018 vintage.

Joseph Colin's traditional methods, using petite cosecha with natural yeast fermentations in stainless steel vats, result in an expressive and intricate wine. The 11-month maturation on lees contributes to its complexity and refinement. Joseph Colin St Aubin Compendium 2018 delivers citrus scented aromas layered with crisp pear and subtle floral nuances, followed by a deeply textured palate of sumptuous fruit and unquestionable elegance.

An investment in Joseph Colin St Aubin Compendium 2018 offers a rare opportunity to experience the epitome of fine Burgundy. Savour the eloquent whispers of terroir and vintage that resonate in each bottle of this distinguished white.

Jancis Robinson (17.5)

Despite being in its infancy, there is a lot to love about this already: perhaps the nose is reticent, but the palate has beautiful crunchy cherry and cranberry fruit with just a touch of black olive on the finish. There's dark chocolate and lovely hedgerow notes too, giving plenty of interest beyond fruit. Certainly not at its best just yet, but full of promise.

Jancis Robinson (17)

As with the white version, they pick this vineyard over several days. Final blend in tank, to be bottled by mid February 2021. Big and broad on the nose with heady, flattering, ‘sweet’ perfume. Lovely freshness and juiciness too. Clos des Mouches is always meant to be delicate. Lovely polish and very easy to like. Already quite approachable

James Suckling (98)

The iodine, blackberry and rose-stem character comes through clearly. Plenty of fruit and depth. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that caress the palate and provide endless flavors of Indian spices, flint, nutmeg and light crust. Such refinement and integrity. Drinkable now, but better in three or four years.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru, which has been produced by Drouhin since 1928, comes from six separately aged parcels. Drouhin mentioned that quite a few barrels were deselected from this vineyard and blended into the Côte de Beaune Blanc. This possesses an intense bouquet with subtle scents of almond, praline and pressed white flower aromas. The palate is taut and linear on the entry, featuring lovely orange pith and apricot notes and hints of tangerine and white chocolate toward the gorgeous, pure finish. Wonderful.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2019 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru, which is a selection from six different tries through the vineyard, has an intense nose, slightly Alsace-like in style thanks to a hint of linseed oil intermingling with yellow plum and orange blossom. The palate is well balanced with a tensile opening. Lovely orange pith and nectarine notes here. Not a voluminous wine, but very focused on the finish. Excellent. 

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-97)

Pale lemon colour. The power is immediately apparent on the nose, but in a good way. A wine for longer elevage before bottling and then worth the wait in bottle thereafter. This has all the expected volume of white fruit while retaining impeccable balance. Adds depth with time in the glass, before reaching quite a saline finish. A very youthful but impressive Clos des Mouches. I recently enjoyed a stunning bottle of the 2017, and this could very well match it in due course. Tasted: November 2021

Vinous - Neal Martin (91)

The 2021 Beaune Blanc Clos des Mouches 1er Cru has a fragrant, comely bouquet with white flowers, lemon verbena and just a hint of honeysuckle, a lick of vanilla pod from the new oak. The palate is rounded on the entry, quite powerful and lush for a Meursault, a real mouth-filling experience with tropical-tinged fruit that perhaps feels a little evolved for its age. Yet it has real chutzpah and is very drinkable now. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)

Fresh light lemon colour. The bouquet indicates a little more flesh, as is typical, but not at the expense of precision. As always this is extraordinarily intense on the palate, not yet as fleshy as it will become, but one can see into the future. Fine fruit and acid balance too, of course. 13.7% alcohol which makes sense for Clos des Mouches. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: November 2023.

Jancis Robinson (17)

Cask sample. Mid purplish cherry red. Lovely floral and open nose. So pure and scented with cherry and violets. On the palate, some oak in evidence in sweet spice. Incredibly smooth and rounded texture. Packed with fruit, generous and remarkably approachable. Just fresh enough. Very persistent with that fruit.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2019 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of dark berry fruit, light seaweed and oyster shell scents, and the 30% whole cluster lends a subtle tertiary aspect. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, slightly chalky tannins. This is very well structured, delivering palpable energy. A saline finish gets the saliva flowing. Just a delicious Beaune Grèves.