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Madrid 2 - د.إ4,090.00
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Castilla y Leon 1 99 (WA) د.إ1,670.00
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Wine Advocate (99)

The pale, delicate and ethereal 2021 Tumba del Rey Moro feels more austere than any other vintage of this single-vineyard wine. It comes from vines at 1,100 meters above sea level on granite soils in the village of Villanueva de Ávila and has a notable absence of fruit. Instead, it's mineral and floral, with subtle herbal notes ("piparra" peppers again!). It was harvested around the 12th of October, and by that time, the grapes had had a full development of aromas and flavors. The wine finished with 14% alcohol but with gobsmacking balance and freshness. The alcohol is not noticeable, a constant across the portfolio. The nose was shy at first and took time to develop, but when it did, it was layered and complex, with more Burgundian floral notes. The palate is super austere with lots of energy, reminiscent of liquid granite, with grip and light. It's a sharp vintage of Tumba del Rey Moro. 1,712 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2023.
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Rioja 1 - د.إ1,240.00
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Rioja 1 95 (WA) د.إ1,205.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

The 2018 Viña del Olivo comes from a plot planted in 1980 that has different soils from the rest of the property, which is mostly alluvial. Here, the soils are composed of clay and limestone. It's 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, which fermented in 1,000-liter French oak vats followed by 16 months in barrel and a further three months in oak vats. This is raw and young, but it's already been released because the wine sells like hot cakes. It's marked by the toasted barrels and has all the baby fat it needs to be rendered invisible with time in bottle. It has very good freshness and round and sophisticated tannins with purity of fruit and finesse. 13,640 bottles and some larger formats. It was bottled in April 2020.
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Rioja 1 99 (TA) د.إ1,670.00
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Tim Atkin MW (99)

Well, well, well. This is one of the best wines of an outstanding vintage, demonstrating that this warm Rioja Alavesa site performs best in cooler vintages. It's a wine that oozes quality from the first sniff, all blackcurrant leaf, coffee bean and wild herbs, leading into a palate of mocha, plum and blackberry. The palate is refined, polished and beautifully freighted, marrying Tempranillo, 15% Graciano and 5% each of Mazuelo and Garnacha to (near) perfection. I can't recall a better wine from the estate. Bravo!
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Rioja 1 99 (TA) د.إ1,595.00
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Tim Atkin MW (99)

Well, well, well. This is one of the best wines of an outstanding vintage, demonstrating that this warm Rioja Alavesa site performs best in cooler vintages. It's a wine that oozes quality from the first sniff, all blackcurrant leaf, coffee bean and wild herbs, leading into a palate of mocha, plum and blackberry. The palate is refined, polished and beautifully freighted, marrying Tempranillo, 15% Graciano and 5% each of Mazuelo and Garnacha to (near) perfection. I can't recall a better wine from the estate. Bravo!
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Rioja 1 98 (JS) د.إ1,610.00
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James Suckling (98)

This is very Asian with black tea, mushroom and bark aromas, and ripe fruit undertones. Full body, round and polished. Edgy structure with blackberry, mushroom skin and cedar. Fantastic finish. Just a baby. Stock up for the cellar. Better in 2020 but already excellent.
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Rioja 2 97 (JS) د.إ605.00
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James Suckling (97)

This is so powerful and tightly wound with so much intensity and power. Full body. Crushed berries and hints of walnuts and cedar. Purity in fruit. Very subtle character, but great tension and richness. Drink after 2021.
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Rioja 2 95 (JS) د.إ687.00
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James Suckling (95)

Black cherries with cedar and dried flowers, as well as dusty earth. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm tannins that are long and polished. Lots of structure. Very typical and focused. Drinkable now, but better in 2024.
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Rioja 1 95 (WE) د.إ1,350.00
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Wine Enthusiast (95)

Certain wines exude a sense of elevated excellence. This one gets to that level via aromas of spice cake, baked plum and tobacco aromas. A stocky saturated palate is structured and built to age, while this tastes of cool blue fruits, herbs, coffee and chocolate. A smoothly textured finish deals cocoa and mocha notes. Drink through 2040.
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Rioja 2 97 (WE) د.إ1,150.00
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Wine Enthusiast (97)

This is a fabulous gran reserva from a very good but lightly heralded vintage. Aromas of spiced plum, black olive, fig, tobacco and cassis come together like a puzzle. A deep, pure palate shows near-perfect balance, while this tastes of plum, berry fruits and earthy spice. Smooth, elegant and chocolaty on the finish, this delivers all one can ask for from Rioja. Drink through 2035.
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Rioja 2 97 (WE) د.إ1,905.00
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Wine Enthusiast (97)

This is a fabulous gran reserva from a very good but lightly heralded vintage. Aromas of spiced plum, black olive, fig, tobacco and cassis come together like a puzzle. A deep, pure palate shows near-perfect balance, while this tastes of plum, berry fruits and earthy spice. Smooth, elegant and chocolaty on the finish, this delivers all one can ask for from Rioja. Drink through 2035.
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Rioja 9 97 (TA) د.إ1,110.00
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Tim Atkin MW (97)

This comes from vineyards in Villalba, Briones and Torremontalbo and is another brilliant release from María Larrea. Savoury, sweet and well balanced, with 15% Graciano adding extra backbone and the zest that you expect from this special red
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Rioja 1 94 (VN) د.إ1,285.00
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Vinous (94)

Shimmering ruby-red. An intensely perfumed nose displays cherry cola, cassis, licorice and smoky oak; floral and vanilla qualities emerge in the glass. Juicy, penetrating red and dark fruit flavors are given spine by a core of tangy acidity, and bitter chocolate, candied rose and spicecake nuances develop with air. Gently gripping tannins add shape to an impressively long, incisive finish that leaves more vanilla and cherry notes behind. Raised for 22 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels.
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Rioja 1 97 (JS) د.إ1,205.00
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James Suckling (97)

This is very ripe with blackberries, dried fruit, toasted oak and black licorice on the nose. Full-bodied with ultra-fine, linear tannins and a racy, refined finish. This has fantastic structure and length. It goes on for minutes. It needs time to open and refine even more. One of the best Imperiale Gran Reservas in a very long time. Drink after 2023.
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Rioja 1 97 (JS) د.إ1,010.00
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James Suckling (97)

This is very ripe with blackberries, dried fruit, toasted oak and black licorice on the nose. Full-bodied with ultra-fine, linear tannins and a racy, refined finish. This has fantastic structure and length. It goes on for minutes. It needs time to open and refine even more. One of the best Imperiale Gran Reservas in a very long time. Drink after 2023.
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Rioja 2 98 (JS) د.إ1,040.00
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James Suckling (98)

Polished and structured with firm, very fine tannins. Lots going on here, with layers of black fruit, dried spices, graphite, coconut and cracked pepper. Full-bodied and so intense. Keeps going. Long. The tannins are so fine and so numerous. One of the greatest modern gran reservas. 85% tempranillo, 10% graciano and 5% mazuelo. Try in 2025.
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Rioja 3 95 (WA) د.إ712.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

The extremely affordable 2016 Viña Real Gran Reserva Especial recovers the "Especial" mention from the old Reserva Especial vintages from a very good year. It's a classical Rioja Alavesa blend of 95% Tempranillo with 5% Graciano from their own vineyards. It's open and expressive, with notes of berries, fresh blood and iron, orange peel and sweet spices with the oak still present and in need of some more time in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied and feels lean and serious, with abundant chalky tannins. This should be a classical vintage of this wine in the making. It matured in barrel for two years and no less than three in bottle. 30,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2019.
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Castilla y Leon 1 99 (JS) د.إ14,225.00
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James Suckling (99)

Expressive, scented and nimble on the nose with refined mineral and a hint of white sesame-like reduction. Subtle white pepper, herbs and red berries extend to a extremely mineral-textured palate full of tactile allures, which makes it even more engaging. I love the subtle delineation from this vintage, which is elegant, dialed-back and soft-spoken, full of etherealness and cohesion. A vintage where La Faraona delivers more austere minerality and verticality over the more perfumed, precise Las Lamas. From organically grown grapes. Delicious now, but will hold, too.
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Castilla y Leon 1 - د.إ1,370.00
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Oh, Las Lamas… she never disappoints, and what a fine vintage to play to her strengths. I honestly spent at least ten minutes just breathing in the phenomenal aromas of this wine. The nose is so open with a lovely fine balance, poised between sweet red fruit and granitic splendour. The palate is so mineral and the wet stone purity in this is exceptional. However, the deep cranberry fruit behind is gently sweet and frames the fine, incredibly long length. This has notes of raspberry tea and is another Bierzo wine with a rainwater finish. Gorgeous. Drink 2021-2030.
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Castilla y Leon 1 98 (JS) د.إ1,450.00
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James Suckling (98)

A Bierzo with great depth and soft-spoken complexity, but still upbeat, effusing a mineral twist to the smoked herbs, iron, raw meat, black cherries, blueberries, dried botanicals, violets and slate. Medium to full body with an ethereal and layered mid-palate that leads to a super-long, lingering finish. The tannins are so dusty and polished. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better after 2024.
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Castilla y Leon 1 98 (JS) د.إ2,475.00
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James Suckling (98)

A Bierzo with great depth and soft-spoken complexity, but still upbeat, effusing a mineral twist to the smoked herbs, iron, raw meat, black cherries, blueberries, dried botanicals, violets and slate. Medium to full body with an ethereal and layered mid-palate that leads to a super-long, lingering finish. The tannins are so dusty and polished. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better after 2024.
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Castilla y Leon 1 98 (JS) د.إ1,450.00
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James Suckling (98)

Delineated, precise and elegant berries with subtle white pepper funk, mineral and white sesame characters make this so attractive. Nimble and almost “Atlantic” with fresh, tangy fruit that follows through to a textured, medium-bodied palate full of silky, mineral-textured tannins. The long, even and cohesive finish is persistent and ethereal. From organically grown grapes. Delicious now, but don’t underestimate its potential for aging, as balance is the key.
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Castilla y Leon 1 96-98 (WA) د.إ1,695.00
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Wine Advocate (96-98)

Right now, I prefer the 2022 Las Lamas to the Moncerbal from this same vintage. Moncerbal is the place that suffers more from the draught and heat, as it's very rocky and has less organic matter, less water retention, while the Las Lamas has more resources to fight lack of water and high temperatures through the higher content of clay. This is expressive, perfumed and elegant, quite Lamas.
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Castilla y Leon 1 - د.إ1,375.00
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2018 Moncerbal is exceptionally fragrant with near crystalline purity. It is a fine, elegant, dancing wine with extremely subtle black berry and black cherry fruit coming through. Its incredible freshness cuts like a knife through the palate which is mineral beyond belief, and the length goes on forever. If you are ever lucky enough to visit this astonishing 1.5ha vineyard, you will see how the vines cling, unbelievably, to vertiginous slopes. That determination somehow comes through in the precision and focus of this stunning 2018 wine. It is exceptional. Drink 2024-2035.
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Castilla y Leon 1 98 (WA) د.إ1,940.00
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Wine Advocate (98)

The 2019 Moncerbal is a "vino de paraje," produced with grapes (mostly Mencía but also 4% white grapes) from different plots that totaled 1.51 hectares in the same zone of the village of Corullón. It fermented with some full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats for 46 days and matured in oak barrels and foudres for 11 months. It's one of the lower-alcohol wines (together with the Corullón) at 13.5% alcohol. This is super aromatic and floral, with notes of violets and also white flowers and even a citrus touch. This is the showier wine of the 2019s—textured, long and gentle, with a great finish. It has changing aromas and flavors, mixing flowers, herbs, berries, earth and even a lactic touch sometimes. It should develop further complexity in bottle. This is a great vintage for Moncerbal, keeping the freshness and poise of the 2018 in a warmer year. They use less and less new oak barrels, contrary to what they thought they'd need with the new winery. 3,488 bottles, 101 magnums and some larger formats were produced in 2019.
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Castilla y Leon 2 96 (WA) د.إ859.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The village wine 2018 Corullón has, for the first time, the new category Vino de Villa (village wine!). It comes from around 90 plots of their own vineyards. In the cooler and more Atlantic 2018, they had more rain than the previous two vintages and a lower average temperature, and they think it was excellent for their wines ("a modern version of 2001," Ricardo Pérez Palacios told me). There are around 8% white grapes here, and the wine fermented in oak vats with punching down, and the élevage was in a combination of barriques, bocoyes and foudres, oak containers of different sizes, and was short of 11 months. This is the modern version of 2001 and 2012, and in 2018, it has the part of Moncerbal (almost 40%) that was not in the 2017 (because of hail, the Moncerbal bottling was not produced in 2017), so it goes back to the classical style. There is terrific balance here, great purity, with the essence of slate; here, we move from the fruit of the Pétalos to the herbs. But there is complexity and nuance, violets, rockrose, sap, resin, fern, cinnamon and citrus, all very subtle and harmonious. The flavors have similar purity, and if these wines never have high acidity, there is great freshness, soft citrus, all very subtle and velvety. This is sooo easy to drink it could be dangerous... They produced 23,034 bottles and other formats, half-bottles, magnums, double magnums and jeroboams. It was bottled in January 2020.
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While Rioja is still the region that springs to mind for most consumers when thinking about Spain, wines from other regions are slowly yet assertively making themselves known. There are the dark, arresting wines of Priorat, the crisp, apply whites made from the Godello grape, the often almost Burgundian Ruedas, the ‘cult’ wines like Vega Sicilia… not just rustic, oxidative wines any longer, but rather intriguing and individual vinous experiences.
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