South Africa
At the bottom of its great continent, South Africa is a country of unlimited natural advantages. With the confluence of two oceans at the Cape, the sheltering effect of inland mountain chains and some of the most dynamic soils in the world, every piece is in place for the production of fine wine. The most well-known region has historically been Stellenbosch, but it is the wines of Swartland that have really turned South African wine on its head in recent years.
The wine industry is in the midst of a renaissance with classically styled wines making full advantage of remarkable terroir and an adventurous spirit. As a result, South Africa is producing some truly exceptional wines of great character and value. Striking blockbuster Syrahs and Bordeaux blends to full bodied Chardonnay and crisp Sauvignon Blanc are some of this great nation’s offerings. South Africa’s own grape, Pinotage, leaves critics divided yet can produce excellent single-variety offerings as well as distinguished Cape blends.
South Africa
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Coastal Region | 1 | 97 (GS) | د.إ1,180.00 | |||||
Greg Sherwood MW (97)Launched in the 50th anniversary of the estate, it was an absolute pleasure to first taste the new release 2020 Paul Sauer in London with both winemaker Abrie Beeslaar and uber critical owner, Johan Krige. Together, these are two individuals who both have very high expectations for every new Paul Sauer release, but not only that, they are both people who will find a way for the new wine to express the new vintage blend in the most succinct and honest way. In 2020, the Paul Sauer is a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc and 14% Merlot from Simonsberg vines grown on decomposed granite at an average of 30+ years old. The aromatics are delicate yet sophisticated, whispering a rich complexity of saline cassis, sweet violets, dried sage, crunchy black berry, iodine and salty oyster shell nuances with a hint of melted candles and incense complexity. Fabulously pure, focused, weightless and intense, there is a notable ambition and intent on the palate, that bristles with a maritime salinity, deep layers of crème de cassis, blue berry, cedar spice and a tart red berry extravagance. This is simply like no other 2020 I have tasted from Stellenbosch. The wine possesses its own class, elegance and swagger, but with an incredible refinement and precision. You would expect nothing less from one of South Africa’s first growth producers! |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 99 (GS) | د.إ1,280.00 | |||||
Greg Sherwood MW (99)A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 13% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Paul Sauer is beautifully intense and utterly seductive, the aromatics pulling you in with their perfumed notes of incense, violets, black currant, saline oyster shell, black cherry, sweet cherry tobacco and graphite with subtle blueberry notes and a subtle kiss of sweet cedar and vanilla pod spice. The palate shows sprawling breadth and depth with a gentle picante spice together with a noticeably intense salinity and maritime, nori seaweed nuance before more bold flavours of black currant, mulberry, black cherry and blueberry coat the mouth. The fine silky tannins are deceptively taut and crisp with the fresh glassy acids adding to the wine’s obvious power, focus and superb intensity. So much wine in the glass, so much to assimilate! The 2021 Paul Sauer represents a true Cape Bordeaux blend masterclass once again from Abrie Beeslaar! |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (VN) | د.إ981.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The maiden 2015 Amphitheatre has an intense bouquet of dark cherries, star anise, camphor and wild heather scents, all well defined and expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fleshy ripe red fruit laced with white pepper and sage, fanning out wonderfully toward the finish. This is a beautiful maiden release, exuding breeding and class, from Alex Starey at Keermont. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (VN) | د.إ535.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 7% Malbec and 6% Cabernet Franc and spent 22 months in seasoned French oak. It has a classy bouquet of expressive red berry fruit, cedar and light undergrowth aromas that leans toward the Left Bank. The palate is medium-bodied with great sapidity right from the start. The tannins are extremely fine here, and the finish fans out gloriously with just enough bite to tempt you back for another sip. This is an outstanding Cabernet from winemaker Alex Starey. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (TA) | د.إ886.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (95)This world-class Syrah hails from a 0.7-hectare parcel planted on a ridge in 2005. Made with no stems in 2016 – the wine normally sees 15% whole bunches - it's like a Cape Côte Rôtie, all perfume, nuance and texture, with notes of ginger spice, barbecued meat and some ferrous grip. 2021-28 |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 94 (TA) | د.إ719.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)Alex Starey is better known for his reds than his whites, but this cuvée of Chenin Blanc with 45% Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne (the last two included for the first time) is wonderful too. Very much a southern Rhône style, it's savoury and herbal, with notes of honeysuckle, stone fruit and citrus, deftly framed by oak. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 94 (TA) | د.إ862.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)This is one of two current releases of Terrasse, produced from an assemblage of Chenin Blanc and 39% Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Wax and honeysuckle aromas progress into a tangy, focused, herbal palate, with some stony reduction and a textured finish. 2021-26 |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 97 (TA) | د.إ1,255.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (97)Syrah lovers could spend a long time discussing the relative merits of Alex Starey's single parcel Syrahs. I have a very slight preference for Topside in 2018, partly because its cooler terroir on Stellenbosch Mountain was well suited to the drought conditions of the vintage. Restrained, focused and built to age in bottle, it has sage and oregano perfume, savoury tannins, refreshing acidity and minerality and flavours of plum, raspberry, red cherry and tobacco leaf. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 96 (WA) | د.إ1,765.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)The 2013 Vin de Constance Natural Sweet Wine was matured in 500-liter barrels for around 36 months. It has a beautiful bouquet with honey, quince, pressed yellow flowers and Mirabelle. It has wonderful definition and purity. The palate is very well balanced with a mellifluous texture and beautifully judged acidity as it just sashays along. It fans out on the finish with honey, quince, a touch of rhubarb and ginger, extraordinarily persistent in the mouth. Matthew Day, current winemaker, opined that he thought the 2012 would be the best ever, but the freshness might see it overtaken. This is awesome. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 96 (TA) | د.إ1,530.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)South Africa's Sweet Wine of the Year 2017. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 98 (DC) | د.إ1,445.00 | |||||
Decanter (98)An historical wine, Vin de Constance has been re-established in the last few years as one of the world’s finest sweet wines. Dried Muscat grapes are aged for three years before bottling, in French and Hungarian casks with a touch of acacia wood. Citrus, orange zest, rosewater and spice notes leap out of the glass. The palate has a laser-like focus with massive sweetness perfectly balanced by acidity and a mineral finish. As impressive as Château d’Yquem (and considerably better value). |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 98 (WA) | د.إ1,555.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (98)The Klein Constantia 2016 Vin de Constance is showing beautifully at this moment. Made during a string of devastating drought years, it reveals orange rind, spicy saffron, pickled ginger and a subtle saline lift, while the palate is glossy yet impressively weightless. The estate’s goal of crafting a “dry” sweet wine is evident in the poised balance between sucrosity and freshness, giving the wine a silky, beautifully composed feel. This is a truly memorable experience. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 98 (TA) | د.إ1,500.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (98)"Lighter and lighter" is the motto at Klein Constantia these days, according to Matt Day. The latest, world-class release of Vin de Constance certainly doesn’t lack sweetness at 165 grams or even concentration, but it has a freshness that's reminiscent of Vouvray or Barsac. Subtly wooded in 50% new barrels, it unfurls layers of citrus, toast and tarte tatin, with a drizzle of honey and vivid acidity and palate length. Bravo! |
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Coastal Region | 2 | 19.5++ (MJ) | د.إ1,295.00 | |||||
Matthew Jukes (19.5++)I am informed by the top man at Klein Constantia that the price will be the same as last year’s superb 2017 and all of the likely candidates in the UK are likely to hold stock. It will require a little effort on Google and you will see that a large number of wine merchants will list 2018 Vin de Constance and while the prices swing around like no other wine I know, at £60 or so, for a half litre, it certainly makes sense to me and when you consider the sheer quality of this vintage, it is a bargain for this celestial experience. Stock is likely to arrive in September 2021, but do feel free to register your interest with your preferred wine merchant now. Vintage reports suggest that the build-up to the 2018 harvest brought the highest summer rainfall of the last six years and, combined with some of the coldest night-time temperatures on record, the vines were granted a very long and very slow growing season. These conditions have imbued extreme delicacy of perfume and flavour and also staggering concentration and length in this wine. It also means that the 2018 vintage has otherworldly characteristics and I cannot remember a young vintage tasting so refined and demure. Light bunches and tiny Muscat de Frontignan berries underline just how unusual this vintage was and with a harvest that was a fortnight later than average and crops down by about 15% all of these facts make sense when you taste this ethereal wine. Aged for three years in a combination of 50% new French oak barrels, a small number of acacia barrels, as well as large format foudres, this is both a sensual and also sensitive wine. For a start, the colour is incredibly pale – think a young Sancerre! But the viscosity is amazing when you pour a glass because the liquid moves ever so slightly slower and more deliberately into the glass. The lights come on and the brain fires up immediately and it takes you by surprise just how quickly your olfactory system senses that you are in the presence of greatness. I was in a state of heightened anticipation, long before I raised the glass to my lips and the reward is exquisite. The perfume and palate combine in an astral haze of delight with orange blossom, fig, lemon verbena, wild honey and acacia notes caressing your senses. The texture is super-smooth, incredibly long and unnervingly gentle. It certainly possesses the longest finish I can remember on a Vin de Constance and I have, very fortunately, a tasted huge number of vintages of this wine. If you have never tasted this wine before, please start with this vintage – it will blow your mind. If you have and you are a fan, this is a critical purchase for your collection. I cannot wait to add this wine to my cellar later in the year. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 98 (DC) | د.إ1,360.00 | |||||
Decanter (98)Butterscotch, lemon patisserie and peach aromas. Pristine quality to the texture, lively and thrilling, this is a serious, opulent and powerful wine, more on the spiced, nuanced side with aspects of dried herbs, wood scents and bitter lemon and orange with a touch of honeyed lychee. It feels supremely complex and characterful. Sophisticated, layered and balanced with some minerality, a slight graphite edge all of which adds to the whole. It's still extremely youthful but there is real sculpting here, a sense of precision, style and freshness. Well crafted with an extremely long life ahead. A wonder, and one of the best from the estate! |
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Coastal Region | 100 | 98 (TA) | د.إ1,410.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (98)Produced in what Matt Day describes as a "perfect" year from Vin de Constance, featuring a long, cool, three-week harvest, the 2021 release has no botrytis but amazing concentration, freshness and intensity. Combining grapes from 25 batches, this confirms the wine's standing as one of the world's great stickies, with layers of orange blossom, jasmine, quince, marmalade and tarte tatin, 168 grams of residual sugar and remarkable freshness and palate length. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 97 (DC) | د.إ736.00 | |||||
Decanter (97)Best in Show - Those seeking out reds based on Cabernet Franc beyond their French home are, often enough, looking for a red wine which combines something of the structure and command of Cabernet Sauvignon but with more lift, grace and aromatic refinement. The red wine from this year's brace of South African Best In Show winners fills that role admirably. It's dark in colour, with refined, complex, raspberry and root-spice aromas in subtle and uninsistent style. Look out for bright, pure raspberry fruits on the palate with a further twist of liquorice and gentian. The structure comes more from the wine's quiet, limpid acidity than from any notable tannin presence, further unscoring that accessibility and responsiveness. |
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Coastal Region | 3 | 95 (TA) | د.إ704.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (95)This is "just" the basic Cabernet Sauvignon from Christo Le Riche, but it's a brilliant wine in its own right. Using grapes from ten different vineyards across Stellenbosch in Firgrove, the Helderberg, Jonkershoek, Raithby and the Simonsberg, it's a masterclass in blending. Matured in 18% new wood, it's wonderfully pure and scented, all violet, tar, tobacco leaf and liquorice, with plush yet structured cassis, black cherry and Asian spice flavours and the backbone to age for another decade in bottle. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (WA) | د.إ1,310.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)Christo and Yvonne Le Riche are turning out some very beautiful Cabernet Sauvignons. Packaged in a heavy glass bottle, the 2021 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is spicy, dark and very riche (pun intended). The wine shows concentrated fruit enhanced by peppery notes and smoky spice. Generous oak rendering adds savory hints of scorched earth. I love the chalky tannins on this full-bodied wine. This Reserve is only made in the best years. Grapes are hand-selected from low-yielding old vines. It spends up to 14 days on the skins with manual punch-downs for gentle color extraction. It then goes into barrel for secondary fermentation, remaining in oak for one year. The final blend is then made and the wine is put back in barrel for another year, plus one year in bottle. This 10,584-bottle release is unfined and unfiltered. |
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Cape South Coast | 1 | 94 (VN) | د.إ540.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)The 2020 Viognier The Age of Grace has a subtle, well-defined bouquet of detailed lemon sherbet, lemon thyme and crushed pebble scents, poised and, yes, graceful. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and linear and quite steely toward the almost Chenin-like finish. This is not a flamboyant, Rhône-like Viognier – it’s is far more tensile and racy. It should age extremely well in bottle. |
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Cape South Coast | 1 | 96 (VN) | د.إ957.00 | |||||
Vinous (96)The 2022 Chardonnay Reserve comprises fruit from the Greyton homestead, which is oxidatively handled and fermented for 11 months in 500-liter barrels (25% new). After swirling to address the reduction, it reveals concentrated scents of dried honey, melted candle wax, orange blossom and a touch of grilled walnut. The palate is well-balanced with mineral-infused, slightly tropical fruit: quince and hints of guava that merge into a more mineral-driven taut finish. Quite a multi-faceted Chardonnay, this will age with style and panache. If that Corton-Charlemagne is a bit over-priced…and it probably is…then you know where to come. |
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Cape South Coast | 2 | 96 (VN (NM)) | د.إ1,225.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)The 2023 Chardonnay Reserve comes from the estate. The juice was oxidatively handled and aged on the lees for 11 months in 500-liter barrels. This has a very complex bouquet with wild honey, orange pith and fine mineralité. It just soars from the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine delineation. It’s tensile, focused and vibrant, with a precise and persistent finish. If there's a better Chardonnay from the Cape this vintage, I haven’t tasted it. |
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Western Cape | 1 | 97 (VN) | د.إ1,285.00 | |||||
Vinous (97)The 2018 Estate Reserve Syrah contains 50% whole-bunch fruit and is aged in 500- and 700-liter barrels, 30% new. It has an extremely pure, slightly floral bouquet of bright blueberry and black currant fruit infused with scents of crushed iris petals and violets, almost Burgundian in style. The palate is extremely well balanced with perfectly pitched acidity and filigreed tannins. There is an unerring sense of weightlessness about this Syrah, which is one of the most precise Lismore reds I have encountered over several years of tasting. Absolutely stunning. |
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Western Cape | 17 | 94 (VN) | د.إ1,555.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)The 2021 Syrah Estate Reserve, which comes from the vineyard most damaged by the fire in 2020, is 50% whole bunches and aged of 500- and 700-liter barrels, 25% new. The potent nose has raspberry coulis, blueberry and touches of cough candy, taking its time to settle in the glass and lose its initial exuberance. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled, slightly chalky tannins. It’s fresh and vibrant, sapid towards the finish, with a long, Côte-Rôtie-like aftertaste and garrigue notes filtering through with time. This should be afforded a couple of years in bottle and will continue to evolve over the next 15-20 years. Just 12% alcohol, too. |
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Cape South Coast | 1 | 97 (WA) | د.إ1,030.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)Hands down the best Viognier in the country, the 2022 Estate Reserve Viognier is instantly impressive in the glass. It seduces and captivates with a delicate floral nose that overflows with aromas of just-ripe stone fruits and sweet citrus. Medium to full-bodied, the palate shows considerable weight with agile, succulent acidity before displaying an appropriate level of phenolic bitterness to keep things food friendly and fresh. The wine concludes with an elongated, ever-evolving finish that has me returning for more. Just under 1,600 bottles were produced. If you're a Viognier lover, you must seek out this bottling. |
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Cape South Coast | 1 | 96 (TA) | د.إ1,325.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)Unchallenged as the Cape's best Viognier, this the latest in a long run of superb Lismore releases. Avoiding the blowsiness that is the variety's weaknesses, it displays a medley of quince, peach and passion fruit, with a dab of cream, ample concentration and a refreshing finish. Especially praiseworthy in a very tricky vintage in Greyton. |
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Cape South Coast | 2 | 95 (VN) | د.إ885.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2017 Syrah continues to serve as one of the Cape's finest expressions of the variety. Gorgeous scents of raspberry, strawberry, Earl Grey tea and pomegranate seeds feature on the detailed nose; then the palate is lithe and silky, with perhaps more garrigue notes coming through with bottle age. Divine. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (CE) | د.إ638.00 | |||||
Christian Eedes (95)46% Grenache, 27% Cinsault and 27% Syrah, grapes sourced entirely from Swartland, the portion of Wellington Carignan that marked previous vintages no longer a feature. Approximately 80% whole-bunch fermentation. Complex aromatics of red and black fruit, rose, fynbos, olive, earth and spice. The palate has good fruit weight (despite a modest alcohol of 13%) to go with bright acidity and crunchy tannins. It’s a very measured wine – approachable without sacrificing character. |
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Coastal Region | 2 | 95 (CE) | د.إ589.00 | |||||
Christian Eedes (95)W.O. Swartland. 44% Grenache Noir, 31% Cinsault and 25% Syrah. 80% whole-bunch fermentation. Whereas quite a few New Wave red wines sacrifice fruit depth for freshness, Lourens seems to achieve both. The nose shows top notes of lavender and fynbos before red and black berries, oliver, pepper and spice. The palate is medium bodied with fresh acidity and chalky tannins. Good fruit definition, lots of intricate flavours, the finish intensely savoury. |
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Cape South Coast | 1 | 93 (CE) | د.إ589.00 | |||||
Christian Eedes (93)34% Grenache Blanc from Piekenierskloof, 31% Verdelho from Stellenbosch, 21% Roussanne from Stellenboch and 15% Chenin Blanc sourced from both Stellenbosch and Swartland. On the nose , white peach, potpourri and dried herbs. The palate is light bodied and tightly wound with pure fruit, fresh acidity and a very dry finish. Has a lovely restraint about it. |
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