South Africa
At the bottom of its great continent, South Africa is a country of unlimited natural advantages. With the confluence of two oceans at the Cape, the sheltering effect of inland mountain chains and some of the most dynamic soils in the world, every piece is in place for the production of fine wine. The most well-known region has historically been Stellenbosch, but it is the wines of Swartland that have really turned South African wine on its head in recent years.
The wine industry is in the midst of a renaissance with classically styled wines making full advantage of remarkable terroir and an adventurous spirit. As a result, South Africa is producing some truly exceptional wines of great character and value. Striking blockbuster Syrahs and Bordeaux blends to full bodied Chardonnay and crisp Sauvignon Blanc are some of this great nation’s offerings. South Africa’s own grape, Pinotage, leaves critics divided yet can produce excellent single-variety offerings as well as distinguished Cape blends.
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South Africa
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Vinous (95)
The 2019 Syrah Biodynamic is drop-dead gorgeous on the nose, offering blackberry, blueberry, crushed violet and light star anise aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with velvety tannins and great depth and intensity, equaled by a finesse that leaves you wanting more on the finish. A sublime Syrah from Johan Reyneke.د.إ417.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (93)
This bottle of the 2015 Columella is better than the one poured blind at the 10-Year-On tasting in London just a few weeks earlier. It has a floral bouquet with black plum, blueberry and light garrigue scents, the whole bunch imparting a subtle pepperiness. The palate is quite sweet on the entry, the tannins saturated and just a little glossier than the '12. Fine grip, but backward on the finish, suggesting that this will benefit from continued time in the cellar. Tasted at the Columella vertical in Hong Kong.د.إ3,770.00 -
Decanter (98)
Complex nose already: beautifully exuberant nose of damsons and flowers – the Carignan really coming through at this early stage. A herbal, stemmy element is also quite noticeable but well balanced. Full-bodied on the palate but only just, with a lovely sense of fluidity, slightly granular tannins and fine acidity – everything is in its place, and is delicious now, but will improve and build further complexity. If possible, wait until 2026 to broach. Long, so expressive and unique. Various soils: granite, slate, clay, gravel. Three weeks' fermentation and three weeks maceration in 3,300L open-top concrete fermenters. Aged for 12 months on the lees in small barrels (5% new), then a further 12 months on fine lees in large wooden foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.د.إ3,160.00 -
Wine Advocate (98)
From the first sniff, the 2020 Columella is an instant champion that is pointing and swinging for the fence. With its fresh frame of fruit and expertly layered oaky essences, the wine is incredibly complex as it bursts from the glass with precision and finesse. Medium-bodied and with 13.5% alcohol, the Columella somersaults into a phantasmagoria of bright crunchy red fruit flavors and seductive floral essences that makes my head spin. Collectors will take note and add a couple of bottles of this to their cellar. It’s an absolutely stellar bottling that will age gracefully for decades.د.إ3,975.00 -
د.إ3,435.00 -
Vinous (96)
The 2021 Treinspoor is Sadie's Tinta Barocca that the man himself likens to Nebbiolo, also opining that it is a wine that needs considerable ageing. These vines were planted in 1974, and the blend includes 40% whole clusters. It has a complex, succinctly defined bouquet with melted tar and graphite infused dark berry fruit, a hint of Lapsang Souchong. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, perfectly-tuned acidity, almost Burgundian in texture yet with more pepperiness towards the finish. So elegant and harmonious - this is stunning from every angle you look at it.د.إ2,160.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (95)
The last two hectares of dry-farmed Syrah on the Helderberg, planted by Bernhard Bredell's grandfather in 1995, were pulled out in 2017, so this Swanesang comes from a new source on the mountain. Rich, dense and Cornas-like, it's another remarkable Syrah from this talented young winemaker, with pepper spice and grip from 30% whole bunches and meaty, stony complexity.د.إ731.00 -
Vinous (95)
The 2019 Swanesang comes from a 0.8-hectare parcel on decomposed granite soils planted in 1999. Here, vines are usually bush vines, but Bredell has trained them to grow upright. Blended with 60% stems, there is just a slight reduction on the nose, though with aeration it reveals enticing brambly red fruit, sous-bois, fennel and white pepper scents. The palate is medium-bodied with an almost pastille-like purity on the entry that belies the structure and backbone. Mainly red fruit here, white pepper and sage, it has impressive precision and freshness on the Rhône-inspired finish.د.إ731.00 -
د.إ1,720.00
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Wine Advocate (90)
Showing its age with tarry spice and dark fruit tones, the Sijnn 2015 Malgas Red reflects an earlier chapter in the estate’s evolution. The blend of Syrah, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Mourvèdre does not include Grenache, and after a decade in bottle, the wine presents a more evolved and weightier profile with deeper, darker edges. There is richness and maturity here, with tertiary notes emerging and tannins softening into a broader frame. This vintage predates the stylistic refinement seen in more recent releases, marking a clear step forward in subsequent years.د.إ1,715.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (96)
Sijnn is one of the most amazing new terroirs in the Cape, producing wines of remarkable individuality. This Rhône meets Bordeaux meets the Douro Valley blend, made with grapes grown just 15 kilometres from the sea, is stony, complex and intensely aromatic, showing lavender and wild thyme avours, grippy tannins and layered, mineral intense fruit. Superb stuff . 2021-35د.إ790.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (96)
One of the most beautiful and complex terroirs in South Africa supplies the grapes for this unique red, produced from a medley of Shiraz with 33% Mourvèdre, Touriga Nacional and the very rare (in South Africa) Tinta Amarella. Inky, savoury and wild, it has freshness and concentration, notes of rosemary and lavender, meaty depths and fine oak. 2023-30د.إ859.00 -
د.إ1,720.00 -
Wine Spectator (90)
Lovely almond and hazelnut notes lead the way, with lemon curd, verbena, heather and lightly toasted piecrust and ginger notes gliding through the finish. Slightly languid in feel, but shows good range. Chenin Blanc and Viognier.د.إ883.00 -
د.إ883.00
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Tim Atkin MW (93)
More conventional than the Sijnn red, this is a three-way blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne that sees a little skin contact before fermentation. Honeysuckle, fresh herb and citrus flavours reminded me of the Rhône Valley.د.إ1,425.00 -
د.إ1,720.00 -
د.إ1,720.00 -
د.إ614.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (96)
As its name suggests, Ignis uses grapes from a 2.4-hectare, north-facing site on warmer decomposed granite soils. Pale, ethereal and very delicate for a 2022 red, it combines the Burgundian 113 and 115 clones to brilliant effect. Focused, energetic and tangy, with savoury tannins, pomegranate and wild strawberry flavours, nuanced and a real sense of energy, vibrancy and purpose. Incredibly long.د.إ1,015.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (94)
Hannes Storm's whites have shifted up a gear in 2022 and are fast approaching the same level as his lauded Pinot Noirs. This stylish Chardonnay showcases grapes from a south-east facing parcel at 330 metres on the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. Fermented in a combination of 32% new barrels and 10% clay amphoras, it's a chiselled, pithy, focused white with lots of zip, lemongrass and orange zest flavours and subtle aromatic spices.د.إ957.00 -
(6x75cl) 2020Tim Atkin MW (95)
As its name suggests, this hails from a cool shale site on the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, planted as recently as 2009. It combines the density of Vrede with the perfume of Ignis, making it Hannes Storm’s most complete Pinot, with floral scents, red cherry and raspberry fruit, savoury tannins and focused acidity.د.إ1,165.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (97)
Now including 20% of the 777 clone, alongside its habitual 115 base, Vrede comes from red clay soils with a high iron component. Seductively perfumed, this stunning red has fine tannins, fleshy, opulent flavours of strawberry and redcurrant, finely judged 35% new wood and undertones of rose petal and forest floor. One of the greatest ever Cape Pinot Noirs.د.إ1,015.00 -
(6x75cl) 2021Decanter (93)
Rudiger Gretschel is production director for South African giant Vinimark, but also makes his own wines in rugged Piekenierskloof under the Swartberg Wingerde label. Old vines are grown 80km from the sea at 600m; grapes are fermented with wild yeast in concrete and just 20% is aged in used oak. The result calls to mind new-wave Garnachas from Spain’s Sierra de Gredos: vibrant and elegant with appealing freshness. Bright cherry, strawberry and plum nose with a whisper of smoke and white pepper. Lovely purity of fruit on the lifted palate, allied with powdery tannins, subtle spice, a core of minerality and a lingering seam of refreshing acidity.د.إ443.00 -
(6x75cl) 2021Decanter (95)
Putting the 'Pinot' into Pinotage, this elegant example comes from a single parcel of dry-farmed bush vines planted in 1990 in remote and rugged Piekenierskloof, where Vinimark's Rudiger Gretschel hones his own range of distinctive and expressive wines. Poised and lifted, with bright fragrant red berry aromas, the linear palate has crunchy raspberry and pomegrante fruit, with gentle touches of spice and fynbos, plus lithe tannins. Only 1,410 bottles made.د.إ956.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (97)
Very few recent South African releases have been as eagerly awaited as this 2018 red from the old Cordoba property on the flank of the Helderberg. And it doesn't disappoint in the slightest. Cabernet Franc-centred, with 24% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, the new crescendo is a beautifully refined, detailed red from 21-year-old vines. Violet and cut grass aromas lead into a palate that is fresh, bright and comparatively low in alcohol with filigree tannins, subtle wood, fine tension and the focus and balance to age. What a début!د.إ663.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (98)
Could Schalk-Willem Joubert do it again in 2019 after such an impressive maiden release? You bet he could and he has even improved on that predecessor. This is more precise and nuanced, presenting a seamless assemblage of Cabernet Franc with 26% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon from the windy western corner of the Helderberg. Complex, layered and restrained, with perfumed 35% new wood, graphite, red berry, blackcurrant leaf and tarragon flavours and fresh, sea breeze-kissed finish.د.إ605.00 -
Vinous (92)
The 2017 Cat’s Cradle is John Seccombe’s new Chenin Blanc from a vineyard shared with Chris Alheit and Memento. It has quite a rich bouquet of honey, light yellow plum and a slight petrolly tincture. The palate is well balanced with a lovely waxy texture countered by a fine bead of acidity and a pithy finish that is beautifully defined. Excellent.د.إ520.00 -
Vinous (90)
The 2018 Cat’s Cradle is pure Chenin Blanc that offers beeswax, yellow plum, a touch of butter and a slight adhesive scent on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with crisp acidity, a slightly waxy texture, and a light marine influence and a touch of salinity toward the finish. Fine.د.إ466.00 -
Vinous (93)
The 2021 Cat's Cradle comes from a vineyard between parcels owned by Eben Sadie and Chris Alheit - old vine Chenin planted in 1979 on granite soils. It has an open, melted wax and broom scented nose, lemon curd and light custard-like aromas. The palate is very well balanced with a superb line of acidity, fresh and tensile with a tang of sour lemon on the finish. So much character here. Excellent.د.إ859.00
