Lafite Rothschild
About Château Lafite Rothschild
Château Lafite-Rothschild is one of the most collectable wines in the world. Purchased in 1868 it has remained continuously in the Rothschild family. Less powerful than Latour and more classical than Mouton, the hallmarks of this wine of wines is a taut, lithe, willowy muscularity, enveloped by transcendent just-ripe black fruit with the perfect sweetness of blackcurrant, black cherry and plum. The scent of Lafite often beguiles its fortunate drinkers and the mythical, irresistible perfume of wonderful cedar, so fresh and elegant, must be experienced to be believed.
Part of Lafite’s centuries-long success lies in its situation on some of the most gravel-dominant terroir in the Médoc. Up to ten metres deep with the stuff in some places, there are a few pockets of aeolian black sand and bedrock of limestone to complete the soils. Naturally conducive to the production of the most unbelievable Cabernet Sauvignon, the Grand Vin of Château Lafite Rothschild is frequently composed of up to 90% of the varietal. Couple this with the outstandingly talented team, headed for 40 years by the imperious Charles Chevallier (until 2018), and we have an estate whose strength lies in its being “a spectrum of flavours rather than a strong expression of any particular one” in the words of Chevallier’s replacement, Eric Kohler.
The 1996 vintage onwards heralded some of the best wines in their history; 2003 and 2009 are notably outstanding. Elegant, fresh, with great fruit purity and remarkable ageing potential. The second wine, Carruades de Lafite, has also been intensely collected over the past decade.
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98-100 (JA) | د.إ10,670.00 | |||||
Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (98-100)This hits you right off the first nose, driven by slate and crushed rocks, setting the tone and the architecture, guiding the fruit through the palate. Cassis, bilberry, tobacco leaf, graphite, crushed mint, finessed and sculpted, this is a gorgeous Lafite, with fine tannins and the squid ink character that seems to be present in all of this stable of wines except Moulin de Duhart. Hidden power, where nothing is too much and yet everything is concentrated, once again proving that the terroir at this particular spot has its own personality that stands out every year. High Cabernet as ever, combined with around 15% press wine. Not the concentration of 2022, but in many ways showcasing the essence of Lafite more squarely, and this will delight anyone lucky enough to own it in future years. 45hl/h yield, highest since 2015, harvest September 7 to 29. 100% new oak. New cellar underway, due for completion in 2027. I am giving it 10 years to begin entering its opening window, a little less than usual but it will make no difference to how long you can cellar it. |
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Bordeaux | 19 | 94 (DC) | د.إ1,435.00 | |||||
Decanter (94)Ripe tones on the nose; bramble fruit with perfumed scents - gorgeous rose scents appear after a few minutes, expanding and becoming more expressive. Juicy and succulent, vibrant and thrilling on the palate, there's a sense of energy here, a liveliness straight away with high acidity and a saline, slate mineral edge to the blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. Lovely clarity and purity with textured tannins that are well integrated but give the taut and refined frame. Great focus and complexity, less textured in terms of tannins compared with 2019 but this is wide and expansive, suggesting plenty of ageing potential. |
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Bordeaux | 42 | 92 (VN (AG)) | د.إ762.00 | |||||
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (92)The 2023 Moulin de Duhart is very aromatic. Crushed flowers, mint, spice, dried herbs, pine, sage and tobacco weave through a core of dark red/purplish fruit. This mid-weight, savory Pauillac is charming right out of the gate. It's everything a second wine should be. |
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