Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

Wine Advocate (100)

Disgorged in September 2020 with four grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the monumental wines of this great vintage. Soaring from the glass with a generous, honeyed bouquet of pear, orange rind, dried fruits, mocha and toasted bread, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with huge concentration, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. Vinous, rich and sumptuous, it concludes with an immensely long, resonant finish. Bollinger waited until the grapes of these ungrafted vines attained 11% potential alcohol before harvesting, and they have produced the most powerful wine of the vintage—as well as one of the most profound.

Vinous (93)

Bright violet. Expressive aromas of cherry cola, red berries, pungent herbs and lavender, plus a hint of smoked meat in the background. Shows strong, energetic lift to the bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors, which turn sweeter through the back half. Closes with strong tenacity and interwoven tannins that lend discreet, firming grip.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Almost all Grenache (there are splashes of Cinsault and Clairette), the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape A La Gloire De Mon Grand-Père was 50% destemmed and brought up in a mix of foudres and demi-muids. It has a riper, sexy bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, toasted spices, dried flowers, and sweet Provençal garrigue to go with a full-bodied, beautifully textured, seamless style on the palate. It still has a classic feel, yet there’s certainly more fruit and opulence here compared to the more concentrated, masculine style of the Chante Le Merle cuvée. This beauty is going to drink nicely right out of the gate and cruise for 15-20 years as well.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Moving to the old vine cuvée, which is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes reveals a deeper ruby/purple color as well as a richer, slightly more powerful bouquet of blackcurrants, jammy black cherries, roasted garrigue, black licorice, and assorted background notes of spicy meatiness. It’s full-bodied and has a beautiful mid-palate, building tannins, and a great finish. This is another classic yet ripe, pure, and beautifully balanced wine from this estate that will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years or more.

Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Folie might not match the magical 2016, but it’s no less a brilliant wine with a subtle modern style in its black raspberry, kirsch liqueur, cassis, peppery garrigue, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. Always the most modern style cuvée in the lineup (it sees a small amount of new oak), it nevertheless never loses its Southern Rhône soul and is full-bodied, flawlessly balanced, with ripe, seamless tannins and a great finish. This wine is roughly 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre that was all destemmed. It should drink well with 2-3 years of bottle age and keep nicely for 15 years or more in cold cellars.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-97)

A low key lemon and lime colour. Clean fresh and classic on the nose. A very typical fresh stony palate, lightly washed in citrus, with enough flesh to provide the body necessary for ageing, and a fine, long, persistently mineral finish. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: November 2022

Decanter (97)

Bouchard’s holding here is superb: 0.90ha on the edge of the Puligny side at midslope between Ramonet and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In 2019, Bouchard emphasised the richness by picking this parcel last. Ripe apples, white flowers and even a touch of honey make their appearance on the nose, while the texture on the palate is unctuous and deep without being heavy. There is still enough freshness to keep this lively through the intensely long finish.

Vinous (95)

The 2019 Barolo Cannubi is one of the best wines I have tasted from Brezza in a very long time. Sweet, perfumed and silky, the 2019 bristles with Cannubi character. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, mint, rose petal and orange zest are some of the notes that grace this exquisite but potent Barolo. Give the tannins a few years to soften.

Vinous (89)

The 2017 Barolo is a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. In 2017, Brovia's straight Barolo is quite floral and lifted in feel. Crushed flowers, mint, spice, blood orange and sweet berry fruit are laced throughout. As a reminder, the Brovia Barolo is a blend of all four sites the family bottles as vineyard designates, with an emphasis on the Brea cru. This mid-weight Barolo is all charm.

Formerly known as Valmaggione, this is a superb Nebbiolo d'Alba and, much like the Barolo, punches well above its weight in terms of expectations given its appellation. With the benefit of Brovia's excellent vineyard management and attention to detail, their Nebbiolo d'Alba has a delicately balanced floral and tart cherry aromatic profile as well as some lively acidity and dusty tannins which will allow it to age as long as many a great Barolo.

A youthful, vibrant whisky matured in refill Bourbon hogsheads, this comes from the legendary run of spirit that made the impossible-to-find Port Charlotte PC1, which is presently unavailable anywhere in the world. The nose is loaded with waves of gentle but generous smoke, coastal sea breeze, boat oil and a touch of tarred ropes. Some touches of fresh, tart fruit crop up to contribute to the overall balance, making this a majestic Islay par excellence. No colour added, natural cask strength - 63.5%.

This must be considered the absolute pinnacle of Bunnahabhain's achievements in recent years. A composition of several exceptionally aged casks, the youngest of which is 40 years old, rigorously selected based on their expression of Bunnahabhain's iconic rich, maritime style, this is Islay as you've never seen it before. A magical dram, a finessed yet hedonistic display of dried sultana, raisin and toffee apple with cinnamon spice, salted dark chocolate and burned orange peel, this wraps up with an unmistakably coastal flourish to finish dry on the palate and leave you always wanting more. Bottled at natural cask strength of 41.8% in a run of just 1,000 bottles. Released in 2018 and now exceedingly rare on the market.

The Real Review (97)

Deepish red colour with a subtle tint of purple. The bouquet is savoury, complex and charcuterie-tinged, dried herbs too, the palate rich and generous, fruit-sweet at the core and almost plush in its texture. A succulent pinot. There are ample tannins supplying backbone and contributing to length, all in harmony with the gorgeous richness of flavour. A stunning pinot.

The Real Review (99)

Deepish crimson colour with a good tint of purple on the meniscus. The bouquet is restrained and shy, brooding and deep, all confirmed by the palate, which is also full-bodied and very deep, concentrated and densely packed, with more earth-bound than fragrant aromatics, some smoky-barrel nuances neatly combining with five-spice and dried thyme touches. A robust, powerful pinot with terrific length and potential.

The Real Review (98)

Deep red/purple, bright and youthful colour. The bouquet shows black pepper, latent dark berries, some 'forest floor' bunchy touches and a hint of freshly-turned earth—a stylish and hi-fidelity varietal nose. The palate is likewise intense and bright, with silky-textured tannins in fine balance, acidity evident and refreshing, inviting the company of appropriate food. Brilliant bouquet and flavour. A stunning wine in an elegant cool-grown style.

James Suckling (96)

The nose immediately shows a fabulous contrast between riper mulberries and blackberry crumble and freshly ground herbs, citrus and incense. The palate shows much the same polish, carrying bright blue-fruit flavors across a bedrock of muscular tannins and driven acidity. This finishes long and very grainy yet succulent. A blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, sangiovese, petit verdot and alicante. Drink in 2022.

Falstaff (97)

Bright, intense ruby red. Attractive and complex nose, full of dark currant, elderberry, plus some sandalwood and clove. Taut and dense tannin on the palate, well integrated, powerful and fleshy with very long finish with firm drive.

James Suckling (96)

This is extremely perfumed with violets, sage, lavender, currants and berries. Fresh and vivid. Medium-to full-bodied with super refined tannins and fruit. So subtle and refined. This is really long and gorgeous. Goes on for minutes. A change in style from past vintages and I like it. 30% syrah, 30% cabernet franc, 16% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot 7% petit verdot and 5% sangiovese. From organically grown grapes. So hard not to drink now, but better after 2023.

Decanter (96)

A village wine in the Priorat classification, taken from five parcels of very old vines at different elevations and slopes in Gratallops. Fermented in open-top 225L barrels and aged in French new oak. In a vertical of 2017, 2014 and 2012, the 2014 shone: very dark fruit, a powerful impression, then a delicious lift of orange zest, fresh herbs, eucalyptus. Wonderfully complex. Textured, with fine grain and a long, satisfying finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2027

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (98)

The 2019 Calon Ségur is a wine of soaring vertical intensity and pure power. That's the good news. The not so good news is that it won't be ready to drink any time soon. Exotic spice, pencil shavings, crème de cassis, mocha and licorice are some of the nuances that develop in the glass, but those descriptions can't even begin to capture the sheer beauty of what is in the glass. I loved the 2019 from barrel and I love it just as much from bottle.

Vinous (95)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wildly perfumed, dusty and exotic, with balsam herbs, savory spices, red currants and plums coming across as so pretty yet rich and potent. A silky display of sour wild berries contrasted by candied citrus wows the senses as the 2017 plays a zesty sweet-and-sour act upon the palate. It’s long, youthfully chewy, yet still remarkably fresh, with rosy florals and tart, tart cherries giving way to chiseled tannins through the finale. This is a beautiful rendition of the 2017 vintage, one that takes the dry warmth of the year and expresses it with tremendous energy and verve. What's more, I revisited this bottle over the course of 36 hours and it only got better with time.

Kerin O'Keefe (96)

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino from Canalicchio di Sopra boasts great aromatics of wild rose, new leather forest floor and perfumed berry that align with whiffs of spice. It’s savory and loaded with finesse, featuring juicy red cherry, botanical herb, white pepper and iron mineral notes framed in taut, lithe tannins. Blending grapes from their Montosoli and Canalicchio vineyards created an ideal, natural balance. Drink through 2038.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (98)

The 2018 Canon is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Maybe more so. Vertical and explosive in the glass, Canon sizzles with tension and vibrancy. Readers will find a majestic, soaring Grand Cru Classé that captures all the magic of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau. Canon exudes mind-blowing precision and deliciousness. It is another magnificent effort from Technical Director Nicolas Audebert and his team.

Wine Advocate (100)

The brilliant 2020 Canon looks set to surpass both the 2019 and 2016 as this estate's finest wine since the post-war period, though like many of the best 2020s, it will require more patience than its 2019 counterpart. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with notions of exotic spices and iris, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with vibrant acids and beautifully polished, chalky tannins. Pure and precise, it concludes with a long, mouthwatering finish. This beautifully constructed wine communicates the essence of this superb limestone terroir, and it will be worth a special effort to track down and cellar.

Wine Advocate (100)

The brilliant 2020 Canon looks set to surpass both the 2019 and 2016 as this estate's finest wine since the post-war period, though like many of the best 2020s, it will require more patience than its 2019 counterpart. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with notions of exotic spices and iris, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with vibrant acids and beautifully polished, chalky tannins. Pure and precise, it concludes with a long, mouthwatering finish. This beautifully constructed wine communicates the essence of this superb limestone terroir, and it will be worth a special effort to track down and cellar.

The very high quality of ageing vessel gives an elegant interpretation of Caol Ila's classic peat. Medicinal and iodine are the predominant scents that fit well into the whole aromatic structure that supports and accompanies it. Tones of medicinal herbs, vanilla, leather in the background and licorice complete it and make it complex enough to let us fly with imagination. Just 161 bottles filled from a single cask at 45% ABV.

A single cask Islay malt matured in undersized ex-Bourbon barrels previously used to mature Bourbon whiskey at the Koval Distillery, showcasing Caol Ila’s classic oily maritime qualities with aromas of sweet, earthy peat, sea breeze and iodine alongside pungent, warming spices evoking cinnamon, cumin, smoked pepper and cardamom. A finish laced with eucalyptus and dried mint makes for a restrained, finessed Islay with a long, dynamic finish. Bottled at a natural cask strength of 58.1% without colouring or filtration.

The second bottling from the Stewart Whisky Company in their Stiùbhart Single Cask selection, released in March 2021 at 13 years of age in a limited run of just 132 bottles.

Wine Enthusiast (95)

This wine's smooth texture is deceptive. Under this creamy guise, a taut, steely character promises long-term aging. Richness and fruitiness harmonize with complexity. Drink from 2022.