James Suckling (93)

Cinnamon and dried nutmeg add to the experience of bread dough and rose petals. Flavorful on the medium-bodied palate and finely poised with bright acidity. Medium-long on the finish. Drink now.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Decanter (98)

A slightly flinty and vibrant bouquet alongside complex aromas of red berries, herbs and lemon, with fresh menthol notes coming through with some air. The palate is wonderful and elegant, with a vinous texture and a superb, calcareous finish. A blend of 45% Chardonnay and 55% Pinot Noir (including 9% vinified as red wine), this Champagne, which has a dosage of 7g/L, is made for ageing.

Decanter (97)

An enticingly rewarding nose of apricot, flint and toast leads to a palate that's just as good and even more developed, with honey, brioche marzipan and bruised apple notes. It has super tension and drive. Compelling, delicious and distinctive.

Decanter (97)

An enticingly rewarding nose of apricot, flint and toast leads to a palate that's just as good and even more developed, with honey, brioche marzipan and bruised apple notes. It has super tension and drive. Compelling, delicious and distinctive.

Essi Avallen MW (96-98)

At this point of youthfulness the pink colour is rather rich and bright. Lovely clean and fruit-forward nose with fresh red berry aromas mixing with spice and orange notes. Quite shyly evolved with much more to surface on the complexity front. Today there is attractive exuberant fruitiness and perfect creamy freshness. Promising palate with power and persistence where an overall harmony enhances the feeling of sophistication.

Vinous (97)

The 2014 Rosé La Grande Année is airy, gracious and full of energy. Crushed rocks, white pepper, red berry, mint and blood orange lend striking aromatic intensity and presence. Finely cut and taut, the Rosé is a nervy Champagne that needs time to come together. The Rosé is blended from a base of the Blanc plus 5% still red Pinot from Bollinger’s Coteaux des Enfants vineyard in Aÿ. Perhaps because of its later disgorgement vis-à-vis the Blanc, the Rosé is a bit tight today. Disgorged: August, 2021. Dosage: 8 grams per liter.

James Suckling (98)

An amazing 2008 rosé Champagne that has all the structure and aromatic complexity - sushi ginger, oolong tea and caramelized mandarin orange - we associate with this vintage, but also has more charm than most. On the palate, this has stunning concentration, yet is diamond bright. The interplay of creaminess, fine tannins and mineral acidity builds and builds at the breathtaking finish. The color comes from about 7% pinot noir red wine, partly from the little-known Les Riceys in the far south of Champagne. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (91)

Very pale apricot color with aromas of peaches, sliced apples, jasmine, wet stones and watermelon. It's medium-bodied with bright acidity and succulent layers of ripe fruit. Juicy and packed with flavor, yet fresh and elegant. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.

Matthew Jukes (18.5)

The question I am most asked every year is, “Is Whispering Angel any good?”. My answer has never changed. Yes, of course, this wine is a triumph. It is made to exacting standards, and while there is more competition these days than ever, Whispering Angel and its Esclans portfolio pals still sit atop the pile. And while some think that you can save a few quid elsewhere, and they might be right, nothing comes close to Rock Angel. Instead of defending Whispering Angel’s honour, I prefer to advise curious rosé fiends to spend a fiver more and drink Rock. Rock is not a turbo-charged version of Whispering, although that is the line most people peddle. They say this because it sees some oak, making it seem like a Whispering+. But to me, Rock Angel is more clearly related to the Estate range of wines – those that come from the Chateau d’Esclans itself. All these wines (Chateau d’Esclans, Les Clans and Garrus) are made using oak, and their fruit is of the highest quality; hence, pricing ranges from £40-£140. Rock Angel swings in under £25 if you search hard enough, and I believe it is the finest value, ‘grand-tasting’ rosé around. It has a stunning volume of fruit, seamless, indulgent and impressively long.

Matthew Jukes (18.5)

The question I am most asked every year is, “Is Whispering Angel any good?”. My answer has never changed. Yes, of course, this wine is a triumph. It is made to exacting standards, and while there is more competition these days than ever, Whispering Angel and its Esclans portfolio pals still sit atop the pile. And while some think that you can save a few quid elsewhere, and they might be right, nothing comes close to Rock Angel. Instead of defending Whispering Angel’s honour, I prefer to advise curious rosé fiends to spend a fiver more and drink Rock. Rock is not a turbo-charged version of Whispering, although that is the line most people peddle. They say this because it sees some oak, making it seem like a Whispering+. But to me, Rock Angel is more clearly related to the Estate range of wines – those that come from the Chateau d’Esclans itself. All these wines (Chateau d’Esclans, Les Clans and Garrus) are made using oak, and their fruit is of the highest quality; hence, pricing ranges from £40-£140. Rock Angel swings in under £25 if you search hard enough, and I believe it is the finest value, ‘grand-tasting’ rosé around. It has a stunning volume of fruit, seamless, indulgent and impressively long.

Matthew Jukes (18.5)

The question I am most asked every year is, “Is Whispering Angel any good?”. My answer has never changed. Yes, of course, this wine is a triumph. It is made to exacting standards, and while there is more competition these days than ever, Whispering Angel and its Esclans portfolio pals still sit atop the pile. And while some think that you can save a few quid elsewhere, and they might be right, nothing comes close to Rock Angel. Instead of defending Whispering Angel’s honour, I prefer to advise curious rosé fiends to spend a fiver more and drink Rock. Rock is not a turbo-charged version of Whispering, although that is the line most people peddle. They say this because it sees some oak, making it seem like a Whispering+. But to me, Rock Angel is more clearly related to the Estate range of wines – those that come from the Chateau d’Esclans itself. All these wines (Chateau d’Esclans, Les Clans and Garrus) are made using oak, and their fruit is of the highest quality; hence, pricing ranges from £40-£140. Rock Angel swings in under £25 if you search hard enough, and I believe it is the finest value, ‘grand-tasting’ rosé around. It has a stunning volume of fruit, seamless, indulgent and impressively long.

Decanter (91)

From one of the most well-known rosé brands around the world, Rock Angel is the bigger, more intense and nuanced brother to Whispering Angel. Pale blush pink in colour, this is lively and refreshing with the depth and structure to pair well with food. A blend of Grenache and Vermentino, this offers white flower and raspberry notes on the nose and a blend of apple, pink grapefruit and summer berries on the palate. One to try if you like the other wines in the stable.

James Suckling (92)

Very pale apricot-pink color. Delicate aromas of sliced apple, pink grapefruit, peach, cream and stones follow through to a medium body and crisp acidity. Deliciously creamy and smooth. Drink and enjoy.

James Suckling (92)

Very pale apricot-pink color. Delicate aromas of sliced apple, pink grapefruit, peach, cream and stones follow through to a medium body and crisp acidity. Deliciously creamy and smooth. Drink and enjoy.

Jancis Robinson (20)

Magnum. Pungent and composed with massive energy. Lovely edge of freshness. Long and nuanced. So clean and pure. Long and lovely!

James Suckling (99)

A mind-blowing wine. This is super subtle and intense with aromas of peaches, light strawberry and cream. Also shows rose petal and cooked peaches. Medium to full body, with ultra-fine tannins that feel like fine silk. The finish goes on for mintutes. It floats across the palate. The winemaker says the closet vintage to this is the 1990, but I think this is better.

Decanter (98)

The Dom Perignon Rosé 2006 is simply amazing. Notes of raspberry, spices and mint jump from the glass in a seductive combination. The texture in the mouth is of precise, crystalline, laser-like tannins in an opulent style. A very great success in a vintage that was not always easy in Champagne.

Decanter (98)

The Dom Perignon Rosé 2006 is simply amazing. Notes of raspberry, spices and mint jump from the glass in a seductive combination. The texture in the mouth is of precise, crystalline, laser-like tannins in an opulent style. A very great success in a vintage that was not always easy in Champagne.

James Suckling (99)

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.

James Suckling (99)

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.