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Vinous (89-91)
The 2019 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru, a blend of two vineyards Les Beautrains and Les Bas des Duresses as usual, matured in around 25% new oak. It has a refined bouquet with a little more purity and sensuality compared to the Auxey Village. The palate is well balanced with gentle grip on the entry, quite rich but fresh in style with candied orange peel infusing the mixture of black and blueberry fruit. Crunchy, almost brittle texture towards the finish which is surprising given the type of growing season. Recommended.د.إ938.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-89)
12 barrels here, so not so bad. The usual almost purple-black colour of this cuvée offers plenty of energy. Dark berry fruit, with a rather stricter finish, and reasonably prominent acidity. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: November 2022د.إ1,150.00 -
Vinous (87-89)
The 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté was picked on 11 October and will be bottled before Christmas. It has a taut, fresh nose with linden and frangipane scents. The palate is well-balanced and very effortless, with touches of stem ginger that liven the finish. This is a perfectly fine Aligoté.د.إ518.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (88-90)
The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté was picked two weeks after the main harvest and racked just before the 2023 picking. It has quite a primal bouquet with grapefruit and Conference pear, gaining delineation in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely sense of "rondeur," slightly lower in acidity than last year but with commendable purity on the finish. Lovely.د.إ540.00 -
Vinous (94)
The 2016 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a classic, undergrowth infused bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of stewed black tea emerging with time, tobacco and rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, succulent and juicy with a fleshy, almost Volnay-like finish that is very appealing. This is a well crafted and comparatively approachable Pommard. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.د.إ2,340.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (94)
The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a wonderful bouquet that fulfills its potential from barrel, offering immediately seductive brambly red fruit, crushed minerals and pressed rose petals. The 25–30% new oak is so neatly folded into the fruit that it is barely noticeable. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and quite citrus-driven, revealing orange peel and blood orange notes. Linear at first and then gently fans out and gains depth toward the persistent finish. Superb.د.إ2,520.00 -
Jancis Robinson (18.5)
Cask sample. Quite a price! Transparent crimson. Very dense nose with more layers than most of the 2018 red burgundies I have tasted so far. Pretty rich with grand cru density. Very well done. Actually the best Clos des Epeneaux I remember tasting en primeur. Long, rich, opulent but all in a convincing structure. Very long in fact.د.إ2,340.00 -
Decanter (96)
The final blend of this is superb, including both the energy of the young vines and the density of the old. They deliver a lush, spicy fruit with a strong mineral underpinning, a dense texture, firm but supple tannins and an infinitely rewarding finish. The Clos des Epeneaux is produced from a monopole of 5.23ha located at the juncture of Grands Epenots (20%) and Petits Epenots (80%). The clos is divided by regisseur Paul Zinetti into four main subdivisions by age of vine and underlying soils which are farmed and vinified separately.د.إ1,955.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (93)
The 2021 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a classy bouquet with assiduous use of whole cluster that complements the red berry fruit. Wonderful delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation, fresh and vibrant, finely sculpted tannins with a sense of mineralité and tension on the finish that has far more sustain than its peers. This is a classy and quite delicious wine for the vintage. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.د.إ2,270.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)
(5 Star Wine) First we tasted the component parts. (1) Young vines from 1980s. A deep concentrated purple. Lesser foliage in the hot dry summer has concentrated the colour and other aspects, giving a dark style of fruit as well, with a nutty finish, but good acidity. (2) A blend, mainly from plot #3 and a bit of #1. Mid purple in colour, less demonstrative on the nose. A much suppler style of fruit, less forceful acidity, fine length, more typical Epenots here. (3) Old vines, 90+ years old: A deep glowing purple. A little more intensity, a gorgeous quality of deep red fruit, just a touch tougher in its tannins, plus the acidity. (4) Press wine: dark purple, powerful rather than fine on the nose, more volatile, but could be useful in the blend. Sweet thick dark red to black fruit. Chunky stuff. And now the blend: A deep purple colour with only a very slightly lighter rim. The bouquet suggests poise as the fruit has melded together harmoniously. On the palate this is, as almost always, a much more complete wine than the individual parts. The wine seems to push down deeper while retaining all the class of the very best components. We are approaching the cusp of red and black fruit, the acidity is perfectly harnessed and the tannins are fine grained. Potentially a very fine Clos des Epeneaux. Drink from 2032-2040+. Tasted: October 2023.د.إ3,080.00 -
(6x75cl) 2013د.إ1,500.00 -
Jancis Robinson (17)
Cask sample. Polished and velvety without the energy of the Auxey Premier Cru. Sort of splits the difference between its two stablemates but I’m not sure wholly satisfactorily for the price.د.إ2,045.00 -
Vinous (91-93)
The 2021 Volnay Les Frémiets 1er Cru has exquisite definition on the nose: a mélange of red and black fruit, allspice and light iris flower scents. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, more red fruit developing laced with clove and a touch of cooked meats, quite complex towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Classy and certainly with the substance to age.د.إ2,020.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-93)
Six barrels, two of them new. A medium to bright purple. The nose is invigorating with as little as 10% whole bunches, enough to add a floral note. This is lively on the palate, a Fremiets which has remembered it is in Volnay, not Pommard, delightfully stylish at the finish. Drink from 2032-2037. Tasted: October 2023.د.إ2,255.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)
Mid crimson to purple, with some reduction on the nose. A concentrated dark raspberry fruit, still with this reductive element. If and when that clears there is a fine long finish to look forward to instead. Impressive fruit in the end, so scored on the asu,mption that the reduction will clear. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: October 2023.د.إ1,175.00 -
Vinous (94)
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a complex bouquet that is slightly more Musigny in personality than I expected. There is mainly dark fruit here, mixed with potpourri and incense and becoming more flamboyant as it aerates in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and quite compact in style because, as François Millet noted, these 2017s are beginning to close down. But there is certainly good density here, and an enticing tensile finish.د.إ5,635.00 -
Vinous (96-98)
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a limpid deep purple. It has a heavenly bouquet distantly related to the Les Amoureuses, offering precocious but detailed blueberry, black cherry, crushed iris petal and crushed limestone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with an edgy, marine-influenced opening, a tang of shucked oyster shells infusing the black and blueberry fruit, leading to a detailed, tensile, lightly spiced finish. A long tail of white pepper lingers on the aftertaste. This is absolutely divine.د.إ11,350.00 -
Burghound (93-95)
(from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the far southern portion of the vineyard). A riper and more restrained nose requires some swirling to reveal its aromas of plum liqueur, blue berry, earth and a more restricted range of spice elements. The bigger and richer flavors possess an opulent richness and a velvety texture that coats the palate and enrobes the firmer tannic spine shaping the powerful, tautly muscular and strikingly persistent finale. This offers a completely different expression compared to the Amoureuses but one that is equally interesting. This too possesses superb development potential though patience definitely advised. (93-95)/2039+د.إ11,495.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (97)
In bottle. Made as three cuvees, then assembled. A rich mid purple with a deliciously heady bouquet, the sumptuous side of dark raspberry, perfumed yet precise, purple fruit with some redder layers beneath, a little white pepper spice, multiple layers of fruit, very engaging with just a very slight youthful bitterness. Irreproachable. Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted: November 2023.د.إ5,635.00 -
Jancis Robinson (19)
I bowed to this bottle. Very deep ruby. Lovely savour. Bones and richness on the end with dry finish. Much, much more grown-up than the Iona. Precise and fresh. Really expressive and gorgeous. Long and stunning now. Bone-dry end.د.إ10,300.00 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016.د.إ7,725.00 -
Vinous (97-99)
The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.د.إ7,635.00 -
Vinous (97-99)
The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.د.إ19,000.00 -
Burghound (95-98)
(from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay). As is often the case, this is aromatically similar to the Chambolle 1er but it’s less expressive and perhaps more densely fruited. There is notably better mid-palate concentration to the substantially sized big-bodied flavors that also possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel while exuding an abundance of mineral character on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finale. This Zen-like effort is superb and a wine that should also age gracefully over the next two decades. (95-98)/2040+د.إ9,115.00 -
Decanter (98)
A tasting of each of the seven 2022 Musigny VV sub-sections and an approximate blend hint at a wine of almost voluptuous sensuality, with expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit and hints of earth, smoke and liquorice that waft from the glass. The texture is powerfully tannic and dense but almost infinitely silky, and there is a dynamic interplay between the perfumed fruit and robust structure. Ideally, wait a decade before opening.د.إ9,365.00 -
(6x75cl) 2015Burghound (90)
Outstanding. Here there is no reductive funk as the agreeably fresh nose offers up ripe notes of earthy and spicy purple fruit. There is both fine punch and volume to the utterly delicious and lightly mineral-inflected flavors that display traces of warmth and rusticity on the otherwise solidly persistent and complex finish. In 2016 this was more Vosne in style but in 2015 it's clearly a Nuits villages but one with a certain refinement. Excellent and recommended.د.إ31,528.00 -
Comtes Lafon Les Six Climats Original Wooden Case:
- Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Boucheres
- Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or 2016
- Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2016
- Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2016
- Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2016
- Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Porusots 2016
د.إ17,165.00 -
(6x75cl) 2020Decanter (94)
Ripe and lush, with notes of hazelnut and butter enlivened by aromas of ripe apple and citrus; this wine is among the great classics of the Côte de Beaune. It is a blend of village-level lieux-dits such as En la Barre (next to the house) and En Luralue, with the younger declassified fruit from premier crus such as Charmes and Genevrières. This represents a total surface of just over 2.5ha. The fruit ripened to an average of 14% alcohol in 2020, and the grapes are lightly crushed then run into cask for fermentation.د.إ3,837.00 -
Wine Advocate (96-98)
The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is a classic in the making, wafting from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, citrus blossom, green apple, mandarin and beeswax, subtly framed by new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, beautifully complete and multidimensional, with a broad, satiny attack, a deep, layered mid-palate and a pure, penetrating finish. Youthfully reserved today, its almost understated elegance conceals impressive reserved of structure and extract.د.إ12,135.00 -
Burghound (93)
A markedly riper yet agreeably fresh and spicy nose somewhat grudgingly reveals its aromas of cool and pure black currant and dark cherry that are trimmed in pretty floral nuances. The middle weight flavors exhibit excellent energy and concentration while retaining a lovely sense of refinement on the powerful, focused and impressively long and slightly warm finish that is shaped by firm but fine tannins. This excellent effort should age gracefully for years.د.إ5,485.00
There is a wealth of great French wine outside the ‘Big 4’ (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and Rhone). The Languedoc Roussillon with it’s herby, robust Mediterranean reds, Provence with its pale, vinous roses, Loire with its flinty Sauvignons, crunchy Cabernet Francs, and endlessly fascinating Chenins, Jura with its old fashioned curiosities… the list goes on. Tradition and terroir are the veins running through them all, making French wines still the most emulated in the world.
